Contentsmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/venice-the-veneto-7... · 2013-11-22 · Santa Marta Parco...

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Contents Welcome to Venice........... 4 Venice’s Top 10 ................. 6 What’s New ...................... 13 Need to Know .................. 14 Top Itineraries ................. 16 If You Like… ...................... 18 Month by Month ............. 20 With Kids ......................... 23 For Free ........................... 25 Tours................................ 26 Eating ............................. 29 Drinking & Nightlife..... 35 Entertainment .............. 38 Shopping........................43 Plan Your Trip page 1 Understand Venice & the Veneto Survival Guide 249 Venice & the Veneto Maps 283 Plan Your Trip 4 Explore Venice & the Veneto 46 Transport ...................... 250 Directory A–Z ............... 256 Language ...................... 262 Index .............................. 275 Venice Today ................204 History ...........................206 Architecture ...................221 The Arts......................... 230 Life as a Venetian ......... 243 The Fragile Lagoon ...... 247 Neighbourhoods at a Glance ............................. 48 Sestiere di San Marco.... 50 Sestiere di Dorsoduro ... 77 Venice in Art.................... 90 Sestieri di San Polo & Santa Croce ................ 96 Sestiere di Cannaregio . 114 Sestiere di Castello ...... 125 Giudecca, Lido & the Southern Islands ....145 Murano, Burano & the Northern Islands.... 154 Day Trips from Venice .......................... 164 Sleeping ...................... 190 203 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Transcript of Contentsmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/venice-the-veneto-7... · 2013-11-22 · Santa Marta Parco...

Contents

Welcome to Venice........... 4

Venice’s Top 10 ................. 6

What’s New ......................13

Need to Know ..................14

Top Itineraries .................16

If You Like… ......................18

Month by Month ............. 20

With Kids ......................... 23

For Free ........................... 25

Tours ................................ 26

Eating .............................29Drinking & Nightlife.....35Entertainment ..............38Shopping ........................43

Plan Your Trip page 1

Understand Venice & the Veneto

Survival Guide 249

Venice & the Veneto Maps 283

Plan Your Trip 4

Explore Venice & the Veneto 46

Transport ......................250

Directory A–Z ...............256

Language ......................262

Index .............................. 275

Venice Today ................204

History ...........................206

Architecture ...................221

The Arts.........................230

Life as a Venetian .........243

The Fragile Lagoon ...... 247

Neighbourhoods at a Glance .............................48

Sestiere di San Marco ....50

Sestiere di Dorsoduro ... 77

Venice in Art....................90

Sestieri di San Polo& Santa Croce ................ 96

Sestiere di Cannaregio . 114

Sestiere di Castello ...... 125

Giudecca, Lido &the Southern Islands ....145

Murano, Burano &the Northern Islands .... 154

Day Trips from Venice .......................... 164

Sleeping ...................... 190

203

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Above: Basilica di San Marco (p52)

Right: Murano glass (p92)

Giudecca, Lido& the Southern

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Neighbourhoods at a Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

Sestiere di San Marco . . . . . . . . . . 50Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . .72Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . .74Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74

Sestiere di Dorsoduro . . . . . . . . . . .77Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . 87Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 88Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88

Sestieri di San Polo& Santa Croce . . . . . . . 96Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 108Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 110Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110

Sestiere di Cannaregio . . . . . . . . . 114Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . 121Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .122Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123

Sestiere di Castello . .125Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . . 141Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .142Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142

Giudecca, Lido & the Southern Islands . . . .145Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .153Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .153

Murano, Burano & the Northern Islands . . . .154Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161

Day Trips from Venice . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164Riviera Brenta . . . . . . . . . . . .165Padua (Padova) . . . . . . . . . .167Vicenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .173Verona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179The Dolomites . . . . . . . . . . .185Veneto Wine Country . . . . . .187

Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . 190

Explore Venice & the Veneto

46

Basilica di San Marco .......52

Palazzo Ducale ..................55

Teatro La Fenice ................59

Museo Correr ................... 60

Gallerie dell’Accademia ....79

Peggy Guggenheim Collection ........................... 81

Scuola Grande di San Rocco ......................... 98

I Frari ................................ 100

The Ghetto ........................116

Arsenale ........................... 127

Zanipolo ...........................129

Palazzo Grimani ..............130

Giardini Pubblici ...............131

Chiesa di San Zaccaria ...132

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore .......................... 147

Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta .................156

TOP SIGHTSV ENICE ’S

47

283

CafeDrinking & Nightlife

Shopping

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BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight

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Diving/Snorkelling

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Map Legend

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Venice & the Veneto Maps

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‚To San Zaccaria

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SESTIERE DI SAN M

ARCO

288

SESTIERE DI SAN MARCO Map on p286

æ Top Sights (p52) 19 Negozio Olivetti ...........................................F5Basilica di San Marco................................ H4 20 Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo.................... E4Museo Correr .............................................. F5 21 Palazzo Franchetti ..................................... B6Palazzo Ducale............................................H5 22 Palazzo Grassi ............................................ A5Teatro La Fenice .........................................D5 23 Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of

Sighs)........................................................H5æ Sights (p60) 24 Ponte dell'Accademia................................ A7

1 Basilica di San Marco Baggage 25 Torre dell'Orologio .....................................G4Storage..................................................... H4

2 Campanile....................................................G5 ú Eating (p64)3 Caterina Tognon Arte 26 Anonimo Veneziano................................... E5

Contemporanea.......................................C6 27 Bacaro da Fiore .......................................... B54 Chiesa di San Moisè ................................... F6 28 Caffé Mandola.............................................D45 Chiesa di San Vidal.....................................B6 29 Cavatappi ....................................................G36 Chiesa di San Zulian...................................G3 30 Da Mario ......................................................C67 Chiesa di Santa Maria del Giglio ...............D6 31 Enoteca al Volto..........................................D38 Chiesa di Santo Stefano ............................C5 32 Gelateria Suso .............................................F29 Fondaco dei Tedeschi .................................F1 33 Osteria da Carla...........................................F5

10 Galleria Rossella Junck ..............................D6 34 Osteria San Marco ......................................F511 Galleria Traghetto.......................................D6 35 Vini da Arturo..............................................D412 Galleria van der Koelen ..............................D513 Jarach Gallery .............................................E5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p72)14 le5venice......................................................D5 36 B-Bar ............................................................ F615 Libreria Nazionale Marciana .....................H5 37 Caffè Florian................................................G516 Lion of St Mark Column .............................H5 38 Caffè Lavena ...............................................G417 Museo della Musica....................................C6 39 Caffè Quadri................................................G418 Museo Fortuny............................................C4 40 Centrale ....................................................... E5

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289

41 Harry's Bar...................................................F6 61 Fiorella Gallery............................................B642 I Rusteghi ..................................................... G1 62 Gloria Astolfo ...............................................F543 Osteria all'Alba .............................................F1 63 La Pietra Filosofale..................................... E544 Palazzo Franchetti Caffè ...........................B6 64 Le Botteghe..................................................F245 Teamo ..........................................................C4 65 Libreria Studium.........................................H446 [email protected] 66 Materialmente .............................................F3

67 Ottica Carraro.............................................D4ý Entertainment (p74) Paolo Olbi .......................................... (see 28)

47 HelloVenezia Ticket Office 68 Venetia Studium.........................................D6(ACTV) ..................................................... G6

Interpreti Veneziani............................ (see 5) ÿ Sleeping (p193)48 Musica a Palazzo ........................................C6 69 AD Place Venice.......................................... D549 Teatro Goldoni ............................................E3 70 Bloom/7 Cielo............................................. B550 Teatro La Fenice .........................................D5 71 Giò & Giò......................................................D6

72 Gritti Palace................................................. D7þ Shopping (p74) 73 Hotel ai do Mori...........................................H4

51 Antica Modisteria Giuliana Longo ............ F2 74 Hotel Flora................................................... E652 Arcobaleno ..................................................B5 75 Hotel Noemi ................................................ F453 Arnoldo & Battois .......................................E4 76 Locanda Antico Fiore................................. B454 ArtigianCarta di Massimo 77 Locanda Art Deco....................................... B5

Doretto ......................................................E4 78 Locanda Barbarigo..................................... C755 Bevilacqua ...................................................D6 79 Locanda Casa Petrarca............................. E456 Camuffo .......................................................G3 80 Locanda Orseolo ........................................ F457 Carpe Diem..................................................D6 81 Novecento ...................................................C658 Charta.......................................................... G4 82 Palazzo Selvadego ......................................F559 Daniela Ghezzo ...........................................E460 Esperienze ...................................................G3

SESTIERE DI SAN M

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C Balastro

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Old StazioneMarittima

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Terminal SanBasilio (HighSpeed Boats

to Croatia)San

Basilio

SaccaFisola

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11

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p301

To Ca’ dellaCorte (50m)

‚To Tronchetto

æ Top Sights (p79) 12 Enoteca Ai Artisti........................................ D3Ca' Rezzonico..............................................E2 13 Grom ............................................................D2Gallerie dell'Accademia .............................E3 14 Impronta Café..............................................D1Peggy Guggenheim Collection.................. F3 15 Pane Vino e San Daniele............................ B3Punta della Dogana ................................... H3 16 Pasticceria Tonolo ......................................D1

17 Pizza al Volo ................................................D2æ Sights (p82) 18 Ristorante La Bitta ..................................... C3

1 Ca' Dario.......................................................G3 19 Ristorante San Trovaso............................. E42 Chiesa dei Gesuati......................................E4 20 Ristoteca Oniga ..........................................D23 Chiesa dell'Arcangelo Raffaele .................B24 Chiesa di San Nicolò dei Mendicoli...........A2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p87)5 Chiesa di San Sebastian ............................C3 21 Ai Do Draghi .................................................D16 Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute.......... H4 22 Ai Pugni........................................................D27 Scuola Grande dei Carmini........................C2 Cantina di Millevini ........................... (see 26)8 Squero di San Trovaso...............................E4 23 Cantinone Già Schiavi................................ E4

24 Il Caffè Rosso ...............................................D1ú Eating (p85) 25 Imagina Café................................................D1

9 Al Profeta .....................................................C3 26 Osteria alla Bifora....................................... D210 Avogaria .......................................................C3 27 Tea Room Beatrice .................................... D311 Do Farai ........................................................D2

SEST

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DI D

ORS

ODU

RO

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Santa Mariadel Giglio

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2

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29

31

373823 40

43

45

48

51

19

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46

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ý Entertainment (p88) 41 Casa Rezzonico ..........................................C228 Venice Jazz Club.........................................D2 42 Charming House DD.724 .......................... F4

43 Hotel Galleria ...............................................F3þ Shopping (p88) 44 Hotel Tivoli....................................................D1

29 Antiquariato Claudia Canestrelli.............. G4 45 La Calcina.................................................... E430 Aqua Altra ....................................................C2 46 La Chicca..................................................... F431 Arras .............................................................E2 47 Locanda Ca' del Brocchi............................ F432 Ca' Macana ..................................................D2 48 Locanda San Barnaba ............................... E233 Danghyra......................................................D2 49 Palazzo Zenobio ......................................... C234 Elitre...............................................................E1 50 Pensione Accademia Villa35 Gualti ............................................................D2 Maravege.................................................. E336 Lauretta Vistosi...........................................D2 51 Università Ca' Foscari Notice37 Le Forcole di Saverio Pastor .................... G4 Boards........................................................E1

Madera ................................................(see 13)38 Marina e Susanna Sent..............................F4

Signor Bloom.....................................(see 20)

ÿ Sleeping (p194)39 Antica Locanda Montin..............................D340 Ca' Pisani .....................................................E4

SESTIERE DI DORSO

DURO

292

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SESTIERE DI SAN PO

LO & SAN

TA CROCE

294

SESTIERI DI SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE Map on p292

æ Top Sights (p98) 42 Caffè del Doge ............................................G5I Frari (Chiesa Santa Maria 43 Cantina Do Spade ...................................... F4

Gloriosa dei Frari) ....................................B6 44 Easybar........................................................ E3Scuola Grande di San Rocco.....................A6 45 Hosteria alla Poppa.................................... C3

46 Muro Vino e Cucina....................................H4æ Sights (p101) 47 Taverna da Baffo ........................................ C5

1 Ca' Pesaro....................................................E22 Casa di Goldoni ...........................................C7 ý Entertainment (p110)3 Chiesa di San Giacomo dell'Orio ..............C3 48 Casa del Cinema......................................... D24 Chiesa di San Giovanni 49 Opera at Scuola Grande di San

Elemosinario............................................ G4 Giovanni Evagelista................................. B45 Chiesa di San Giovanni 50 Summer Arena ........................................... D5

Evangelista ...............................................B56 Chiesa di San Polo ......................................D6 þ Shopping (p110)7 Chiesa di San Rocco...................................A6 51 Aliani.............................................................G58 Chiesa di San Stae......................................E2 52 Campiello Ca' Zen ...................................... C59 Fondaco dei Turchi..................................... C1 53 Cartavenezia...............................................D4

10 II Gobbo....................................................... H4 54 Cartè ............................................................ F411 Palazzo Mocenigo.......................................D2 55 Dietro L'Angolo...........................................C612 Pescaria .......................................................G3 56 Drogheria Mascari......................................G413 Ponte delle Tette.........................................E4 57 Emilio Ceccato............................................H514 Ponte di Rialto.............................................H5 58 Fanny ...........................................................C615 Rialto Market...............................................G3 59 Franco Furlanetto.......................................C616 Scuola Grande di San Giovanni 60 Gilberto Penzo ............................................C6

Evangelista ...............................................B4 61 Giuseppe Tinti............................................. E362 Gmeiner ........................................................F5

ú Eating (p104) 63 I Vetri a Lume di Amadi .............................C617 Al Nono Risorto...........................................E3 64 Il Baule Blu................................................... B718 Al Pesador................................................... H4 65 Il Gufo Artigiano..........................................G419 Alaska Gelateria..........................................A2 66 Il Pavone di Paolo Pelosin.......................... E520 All'Arco ........................................................ G4 67 La Bottega di Giò ........................................ B521 Antica Birreria la Corte ..............................D5 68 La Margherita.............................................. E322 Antiche Carampane ...................................E4 69 La Pedrera...................................................C423 Antico Panificio ........................................... F5 70 Laberintho...................................................D424 Dai Zemei.....................................................G5 71 Marco Franzato Vetrate25 Mauro El Forner de Canton .......................G5 Artistiche ..................................................D426 Osteria La Zucca.........................................C2 72 Mille e Una Nota.......................................... E627 Osteria Mocenigo........................................D2 73 Ottica Vascellari ..........................................F528 Pasticceria Rizzardini.................................E6 74 Pied á Terre Shoes.....................................G429 Pronto Pesce Pronto................................. G4 75 Sabbie e Nebbie.......................................... C730 Rialto Biocenter ..........................................E3 76 Serena Vianello............................................F5

Rialto Market......................................(see 15) 77 Veneziastampa........................................... E331 Sacro e Profano ..........................................H5 78 VizioVirtù..................................................... B732 Snack Bar ai Nomboli.................................C633 Tearoom Orientale .....................................A3 ÿ Sleeping (p197)34 Trattoria da Ignazio ....................................C6 79 Al Campaniel............................................... B735 Vecio Fritolin................................................E3 80 Al Ponte Mocenigo ..................................... E2

81 Ca' Angeli..................................................... E6û Drinking & Nightlife (p108) 82 Ca' San Polo ................................................C6

36 Ai Postali ......................................................A4 83 Domina Home Ca' Zusto ........................... B237 Al Mercà ...................................................... H4 84 Hotel al Duca................................................C138 Al Prosecco..................................................C2 85 Hotel Palazzo Barbarigo............................ D739 Antica Osteria Ruga Rialto ........................G5 86 Locanda Arco Antico ................................. E640 Bagolo ..........................................................C3 87 Oltre il Giardino........................................... C541 Caffè dei Frari..............................................B5 88 Pensione Guerrato .....................................G4

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ú Eating (p106) þ Shopping (p112)1 La Rivetta.....................................................D2 4 Mare di Carta ..............................................C32 Pasticceria Trevisan...................................D23 Tearoom Caffè Orientale........................... D1 ÿ Sleeping (p198)

5 Hostel Domus Civica.................................. D3

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296

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æ Top Sights (p116) ú Eating (p119)Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Miracoli .......... H4 15 Ai Canottieri .................................................B1The Ghetto...................................................D2 16 Al Cicheti......................................................C3

17 Anice Stellato...............................................E1æ Sights (p118) 18 Antica Adelaide............................................F3

1 Campo dei Mori........................................... F2 19 Bentigodi ..................................................... E22 Chiesa della Madonna dell'Orto.................F1 20 Billa Supermarket .......................................F33 Chiesa di San Marcuola .............................E3 21 Dalla Marisa................................................. B24 Galleria Franchetti ...................................... F4 22 La Cantina ....................................................F35 I Gesuiti ....................................................... H3 23 Osteria al Ponte ..........................................H46 Ikona Gallery................................................D2 24 Osteria alla Vedova .....................................F3

Museo Ebraico ...................................(see 13) 25 Osteria Boccadoro .....................................H47 Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi.......................E3 26 Osteria da Alberto ......................................H48 Ponte di Calatrava ......................................B4 27 Osteria L'Orto dei Mori ...............................F29 Schola Canton.............................................D2 28 Pasticceria dal Mas.................................... C3

10 Schola Italiana.............................................D2 29 Taverna del Campiello Remer ..................G411 Schola Levantina ........................................D212 Schola Spagnola .........................................D2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p121)13 Schola Tedesca...........................................D2 30 Agli Ormesini............................................... E214 Spezeria Antica Santa Fosca ....................E3 31 Al Timon........................................................D1

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32 Algiubagiò ................................................... H3 46 Le Maschere di Ale .....................................G433 Caffè Costa Rica .........................................D2 47 Malefatte ......................................................F334 Il Santo Bevitore.......................................... F2 48 Old World Books......................................... D235 Osteria Ai Osti ............................................. F3 49 Spilli Lab & Shop.........................................H436 Un Mondo di Vino....................................... H4 50 Vladi Shoes.................................................. E2

ý Entertainment (p122) ÿ Sleeping (p198)Casinò di Venezia................................ (see 7) 51 Alla Vite Dorata...........................................G3

37 Cinema Giorgione Movie d'Essai ............. G4 52 Ca' Pozzo.....................................................D238 HelloVenezia Ticket Outlet........................C4 53 Domus Orsoni.............................................C239 HelloVenezia Ticket Outlet 54 Hotel Abbazia..............................................C3

(ACTV) ......................................................B4 55 Hotel Villa Rosa...........................................C340 Paradiso Perduto........................................ F2 56 Locanda Leon Bianco ................................G441 Teatro Fondamenta Nuove .......................G2 57 Palazzo Abadessa ......................................G3

58 Residenza Ca' Riccio..................................H4þ Shopping (p122) 59 Residenza Cannaregio................................D1

42 Antichità al Ghetto .....................................D243 Dolceamaro ................................................ H444 Gianni Basso............................................... H445 Giunti al Punto.............................................C3

SESTIERE DI CANN

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SESTIERE DI CASTELLO

300

SESTIERE DI CASTELLO Map on p298

æ Top Sights (p127) 32 Le Spighe......................................................F5Arsenale .......................................................E4 33 Met ...............................................................C4Chiesa di San Zaccaria...............................C4 34 Osteria al Garanghelo ................................ E5Giardini Pubblici......................................... G6 35 Osteria di Santa Marina............................. A2Palazzo Grimani..........................................B3 36 Pasticceria da Bonifacio............................B4Zanipolo (Chiesa dei SS Giovanni e 37 Pizzeria alla Strega..................................... C2

Paolo) ........................................................B2 38 Taverna San Lio.......................................... A239 Trattoria alla Rampa .................................. G5

æ Sights (p133) 40 Trattoria Corte Sconta ..............................D41 Arsenale Nuovissimo ................................. F3 41 Zenzero........................................................ A22 Arsenale Nuovo...........................................E43 Arsenale Vecchio ........................................E3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p141)4 Biennale Exhibition Spaces .......................E5 42 Bar Terazza Danieli .................................... B45 Cattedrale di San Pietro di 43 Enoteca Mascareta .................................... B2

Castello .................................................... H4 44 Inishark ........................................................ A36 Chiesa di San Francesco della 45 L'Olandese Volante .................................... A2

Vigna..........................................................D2 46 Paradiso....................................................... G77 Chiesa di San Giorgio dei Greci.................C3 Qcoffee Bar ........................................ (see 15)8 Chiesa di San Giovanni in Bragora ...........D4 47 Venezia Caffé.............................................. C29 Chiesa di San Lio.........................................A2

10 Chiesa di San Martino ................................D4 ý Entertainment (p142)11 Chiesa di Santa Maria Formosa................B3 Concerts at La Pietà..........................(see 13)12 Garibaldi Monument................................... F5 48 Laboratorio Occupato Morion..................D213 La Pietà.........................................................C414 La Tana.........................................................F4 þ Shopping (p142)15 Museo della Fondazione Querini 49 Arte Vetro Murano ..................................... B4

Stampalia..................................................B3 50 Atelier Alessandro Merlin..........................D416 Museo delle Icone.......................................C3 51 Banco Lotto 10............................................D417 Museo Diocesano di Venezia ....................B4 52 Giovanna Zanella........................................ A218 Museo Storico Navale................................E5 53 Kalimala Cuoieria ....................................... A319 Ospedaletto .................................................C2 54 Paolo Brandolisio ....................................... A320 Padiglione delle Navi ..................................E4 55 Papier Mâché Laboratorio ........................ B2

Palazzo Querini Stampalia ...............(see 15) 56 Profili ............................................................ E521 Porta Magna................................................E4 57 Sigfrido Cipolato......................................... A322 Riva degli Schiavoni....................................D423 Scuola di San Giorgio degli ÿ Sleeping (p199)

Schiavoni...................................................C3 58 Albergo Doni ............................................... B424 Scuola Grande di San Marco..................... B1 59 Alloggi Barbaria .......................................... C225 Serra dei Giardini ....................................... G6 60 Ca' dei Dogi .................................................B426 Sotoportego dei Preti.................................D4 61 Foresteria Valdese ..................................... B227 Statue of Bartolomeo Colleoni..................B2 62 Hotel al Piave .............................................. B3

63 Hotel Danieli................................................ B4ú Eating (p138) 64 Hotel Riva .................................................... A3

28 Al Covo .........................................................D4 65 La Residenza...............................................D429 Bacaro Risorto ............................................B4 66 Locanda La Corte....................................... B230 Cip Ciap........................................................B3 67 Locanda Sant'Anna.................................... G531 Conca d'Oro.................................................B4 68 Palazzo Soderini.........................................D4

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BURANO

& TORCELLO

Alison Bing Coordinating Author, Sestiere di San Marco, Sestiere di Dorsoduro, Ses-tiere di Cannaregio, Sestieri di San Polo & Santa Croce, Murano, Burano & the Northern Islands When she’s not scribbling notes in church pews or methodically eating her way across Venice’s sestieri (neighbourhoods), Alison contributes to Lonely Planet’s Venice, USA, Morocco, San Francisco, Marrakesh, California and Discover Italy guides, as well as food, art and archi-

tecture magazines. Alison holds a bachelor’s degree in art history and a master’s degree from the Fletcher School of Law and Diplomacy, a joint program of Tufts and Harvard Universities – perfectly respectable diplomatic credentials she regularly undermines with opinionated culture commentary for newspapers, magazines, TV and radio. Currently she divides her time between San Francisco and an Etruscan hilltop town in central Italy with partner Marco Flavio Marinucci, and tweets her fi nds at www.twitter.com/AlisonBing. Alison also contributed Plan Your Trip, Sleeping, Understand Venice & the Veneto and the colour sections in this guide.

Robert Landon Sestiere di Castello, Giudecca, Lido & the Southern Islands Since fi rst crossing from congested Piazzale Roma into the car-free canals of Venice, Robert has been hooked on the watery city. He’s returned many times and in every season, from snowy February to sweltering August; its charms never diminish. However, it was albino asparagus and Valpolicella reds that had him writing home on his most recent trip to the Veneto. Before working for Lonely

Planet, Robert studied Italian at Stanford University, and he also lived a half-year in both Rome and Florence. Currently based in Rio de Janeiro, he has written about travel, arts and culture for a range of publications, including the London Daily Telegraph, the Los Angeles Times and Dwell magazine. Other Lonely Planet titles include Florence Encounter, Brazil, Colombia, California, Portugal and West Africa. Robert also contributed Day Trips from Venice, Sleeping, Directory A–Z and Transport in this guide.

Read more about Alison at:lonelyplanet.com/members/alisonbing

Read more about Robert at:lonelyplanet.com/members/robertlandon

Our Writers

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9837th edition – Feb 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 852 4© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Day One San Marco (p 50 )

M Begin your day in prison on the Secret Passageways tour of the Palazzo

Ducale, then make a break for espresso in Piazza San Marco before the Byzantine blitz of golden mosaics inside Basilica di San Marco. Browse boutique-lined back-streets to Museo Fortuny, the palace fash-ion house whose slinky goddess gowns set standards for Bohemian glamour.

Dorsoduro (p 77 )

R Pause atop wooden Ponte dell’Accademia for Grand Canal

photo-ops, then discover visual splendours no camera can convey inside Gallerie dell’Accademia – now you see where Venetian painters get their reputations for vibrant colour and major drama. Wander to Squero di San Trovaso to watch gondolas being built, then bask in the afternoon sun-light and dazzling views of Palladio’s Il Re-dentore along waterfront Zattere. Stop at tiny Chiesa di San Sebastian, packed with Veroneses, then troll artisan boutiques along Calle Lunga San Barnaba until it’s ‘spritz o’clock’ (cocktail hour) in Campo Santa Margherita.

San Marco (p 50 )

N The hottest ticket in town during opera season is at La Fenice, but

classical music fans shouldn’t miss Vivaldi played with contemporary verve by Inter-preti Veneziani.

Lunch Enoteca al Volto (p 65 ): handmade pasta in a hidden calle.

Dinner Bacaro Da Fiore (p 65 ): quick bites of seafood, superior Soave.

Day Two Dorsoduro (p 77 )

M Discover the modern art that caused uproars and defi ned the 20th century

at the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, then confront contemporary art pushing 21st-century buttons inside Punta della Dogana, Venice’s ancient customs house. Hop the vaporetto in front of Baldassare Longhena’s domed Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute up the Grand Canal.

San Polo & Santa Croce (p 96 )

R Shop your way south to masterpieces facing off across Campo San Rocco:

I Frari, featuring Titian’s radiant altar-piece, and Scuola Grande di San Rocco, fi lled with stormy Tintoretto masterpieces. Antique shops and artisan studios line your route from Campo dei Frari to Campo San Polo and Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio, where the medieval church restores the senses with meditative calm. Test your ori-enteering skills on the winding back lanes of the former red-light district, heading across Ponte delle Tette (Tits Bridge) towards Al Mercá for happy hour.

San Marco (p 50 )

N Cross Ponte di Rialto to join over-fl ow crowds grooving to DJ sets at

Osteria All’Alba, or order your new favour-ite Veneto vintage at I Rusteghi.

Lunch Enjoy market-fresh feasts in miniature at All’Arco (p 104 ).

Dinner Al Pesador (p 104 ): Grand Canal seats, memorable market-inspired fare.

Top Itineraries

16

Day Three Castello (p 125 )

M Wayward socialites were ware-housed at Chiesa di San Zaccaria,

but you’re free to wander from these Byz-antine marvels to Renaissance glories at frescoed Palazzo Grimani. Refuel with espresso and a jolt of modernism at Mario Botta–designed QCoff ee Bar, then head to brick Gothic Zanipolo for blasts from the pasts: marble tombs of 25 dogi. The Renaissance is only two bridges away at Chiesa di Santa Maria degli Miracoli, a polychrome marble miracle made from Basilica di San Marco’s leftovers.

Cannaregio (p 114 )

R Turn away from shopping tempta-tions along Strada Nuova to fi nd

sudden calm along Fondamenta della Misericordia. Pass statue sentries ring-ing Campo dei Mori to reach Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto, the white-trimmed, red-brick Gothic church that was the object of Tintoretto’s painterly atten-tions for decades. Tour the Ghetto’s rooftop synagogues and enjoy quiet refl ection in Ikona Gallery and Old World Books, until Venice’s happiest hours beckon across the bridge at Al Timon.

Cannaregio (p 114 )

N Take a romantic gondola ride through Cannaregio’s long canals,

which seem purpose-built to maximise moonlight.

Lunch Slow Food that goes down fast: try panini at Zenzero (p 138 ).

Dinner Hearty meals to satisfy sailors await at Dalla Marisa (p 121 ).

Day Four Murano, Burano & the Northern Islands (p 154 )

M Make your lagoon getaway on a va-poretto bound for rainbow-coloured

Burano and green and gold Torcello. Follow the sheep-trail to Torcello’s Byzan-tine cathedral, where a golden Madonna in the apse calmly stares down the blue devils opposite. Explore relics of this Byz-antine capital and spot lagoon birds no longer hunted by Hemingway, then head to Burano to admire extreme home-design schemes and handmade lace.

Murano, Burano & the Northern Islands (p 154 )

R Witness the fi ery passions of glass artisans in action at Murano’s leg-

endary fornace (furnaces), and see some of their fi nest moments at the Museum of Glass. After Murano showrooms close, hop the vaporetto all the way to Giudecca for one last, long view of San Marco glitter-ing across glassy waters.

San Marco (p 50 )

N Celebrate your triumphant tour of the lagoon with a prosecco toast and

tango across Piazza San Marco at Caff è Florian; repeat as necessary.

Lunch Venissa (p 160 ): Sunny Mazzorbo vineyards, inspired lagoon cuisine.

Dinner I Figli delle Stelle (p 151 ): Hearty dishes and romantic canalside tables.

17PLAN

YOUR TRIP TO

P IT

INER

AR

IES

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