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Arremesso de Facas - Conceitos Bsicos

"O po cai sempre com a manteiga pra baixo."

Isto porque a distncia da mesa ao cho, em geral, spermite meia volta ao po! O mesmo princpio se aplica

ao Arremesso de Facas: a gente tem que entender onmero de voltas que a faca d, da mo ao alvo, paraacertar de ponta. Assim, o arremesso bsico ochamado "arremesso de meia-volta", onde a facadescreve meia volta entre a mo e o alvo. realizadoentre 1,80 e 2,40 metros do alvo, dependendo dotamanho da faca e do arremessador, do estilo, fora,etc. Esse arremesso feito segurando a faca pelalmina. O p frente normalmente o oposto moque lana; a faca deve ser "solta" da mo (deslizar,quando se abrem os dedos) e no ser jogada nomomento em que o antebrao fica alinhado com o alvo.

Deixe a prpria faca seguir o movimento que ela vai encontrar o alvo da forma certa. O movimento de arremesso

de facas semelhante ao de um golpe cortante com uma espada. O brao nunca deve cruzar o corpo, e simseguir paralelo. Depois do arremesso, continue o movimento at a mo descansar naturalmente na altura da coxa(follow-through).

O segredo repetir sempre exatamente os mesmos movimentos e, ao contrrio do que normalmente se pensa,manter o pulso firme, como se estivesse "travado".O "joguinho" de pulso faz a faca girar alm do necessrio. Olhesempre para o alvo e no para a faca!

Talvez a lio mais importante do Arremesso de Facas que os arremessos so feitos alternando- se aempunhadura entre a lmina (ponta) e o cabo da faca.Assim, como dissemos, o arremesso de meia volta feitopela lmina. O segundo arremesso, feito aproximadamente entre 3 e 3,60 metros do alvo, feito pelo cabo, e chamado de "arremesso de uma volta". Depois, vem o "arremesso de uma volta e meia" (entre uns 4 e 4,50metros) que volta a ser feito pela lmina. A regra , todos os arremessos mltiplos de meia volta so feitos pela

lmina, os de uma volta pelo cabo.

Dica: aprenda a acertar suas distncias contando passos at o alvo e marcando no cho os pontos de onde vocconsegue fincar as facas. Isso ajuda muito no comeo.

Tipos de FacasFacas de arremesso so mais grossas e pesadas do que facas comuns. No possuem corte, para permitir quesejam arremessadas pela lmina sem risco de ferimentos. Por isso, no use facas de cozinha para arremesso -elas tm tambm uma tmpera mais dura, e podem estilhaar, causando acidentes. O ideal mesmo comprarfacas prprias para arremesso.

Empunhadura ou Grip

Outro dado importante como se segura a faca para o arremesso.A empunhadura mais comum a chamadaHammer Grip onde se segura a faca como se estivssemos dando a mo para algum.Outra opo o chamado Thumb Grip, onde o polegar se apia na "espinha" da faca. Ambos podem ser usadostanto no arremesso pela lmina quanto pelo cabo.

AlvosProcure usar sempre alvos de madeira macia, tipo pinus ou cedrinho, e de preferncia molhada, isso facilita apenetrao da faca e aumenta a durabilidade do alvo. Use de duas a quatro tbuas pregadas umas nas outras,como se fosse uma cerca. "Discos" de rvores macias (Pinus, palmas) tambm do excelentes alvos.

Modalidades Principais

Arremesso Esportivo ou de Competio: um esporte de tiro ao alvo, como o Arco e Flecha, por exemplo. A

idia arremessar um determinado nmero de facas a alvos colocados em diferentes alturas, em distncias quevariam entre 2,40 e 6,30 ms, ganhando quem conseguir maior nmero de pontos na somatria do resultado detodas as distncias.
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Arremesso Circense: aquele visto em Circos e teatros, onde um profissional experiente arremessa facas emalvos (bales, cartas) ou em volta de uma partner (Impalement Arts). Esses nmeros com partners s so feitosaps muito treino, pelo risco que oferecem. David Adamovich, considerado o melhor arremessador circense domundo disse que "se voc no tiver certeza de que vai acertar um milho de vezes em um milho de tentativas,voc ainda no est pronto".

SeguranaFinalizando, outro dado importantssimo a Segurana: a rea de arremesso deve ficar longe de objetosdanificveis, e nenhum assistente deve ficar a menos de 4 metros do arremessador. Use sempre culos de

proteo e calado, no comeo muito comum as facas ricochetearem, esse o nico real perigo no Arremessode Facas. Uma boa dica , se as facas estiverem ricocheteando em sua direo ou para os lados, aproxime-se umpouco do alvo, isso ir corrigir o problema.

importante destacarmos que o arremesso de facas no visa a auto-defesa, caa ou qualquer tipo de violncia, to somente um esporte de habilidade e concentrao.

COMO LANZAR CUCHILLOS

Para lograr un lanzamiento deportivo y placentero se debern tomar algunas precauciones bsicascomo ser: ubicacin del blanco, distancias de lanzamiento, prever posibles rebotes, cuidar de laspersonas que nos estn mirando en ese momento.

Una vez ordenada la zona de prctica podemos comenzar. La mayora de nosotros sabemos o nosdamos una idea de cmo lanzar una piedra, imaginemos que en lugar de una piedra tenemos uncuchillo de lanzar.

Nos posicionamos a unos cuatro o cinco pasos de distancia del blanco, marcamos el piso, tocamos la

punta de nuestro pie sobre la marca y la otra pierna ligeramente separada hacia atrs lo suficientepara estar en equilibrio, en esta posicin lanzamos el cuchillo inclinndonos hacia adelante.

Probando as y sin desanimarnos vamos buscando nuestra propia distancia, TODOS TENEMOSDISTANCIAS DIFERENTES.

Cuando logremos el mayor porcentaje de aciertos o clavadas, esa es nuestra distancia y desde alldebemos practicar hasta tener la seguridad de que esa es nuestra distancia, esta vara de acuerdo allargo de nuestros brazos. A cuatro o cinco pasos es la distancia ideal para iniciarse a practicar estedeporte.

Para lanzar por el mango dar dos pasos atrs, es un simple clculo matemtico, si damos dos pasosms atrs volvemos a lanzar por la hoja.

Por sobre todas las cosas no desanimarse y marcar las distintas distancias de lanzamiento en el piso.

Si el cuchillo pega con la hoja hacia arriba deber adelantar el pie unos veinte centmetros de la marcaestablecida inicialmente y a la inversa si el cuchillo pega con el mango hacia arriba.

Teniendo una orientacin de una de las tcnicas de lanzamiento, ya que hay muchsimas, podremoselegir qu tipo de cuchillos nos gusta lanzar, para hacer esto debemos tomar el peso, forma y tipo decuchillo, todo debe estar en armona y acorde a nuestra contextura fsica y potencia muscular,debemos sentir que dominamos el cuchillo y no l a nosotros.

Personalmente prefiero los cuchillos grandes ya que con ellos se logra una mejor penetracin en elblanco y se evita el flameo de los cuchillos livianos. Los cuchillos grandes miden entre 28 y 40 cm. delargo siendo los ms usuales los de 30 a 36 cm. y pesan 300 a 350 grs.

Para saber cul es el centro de gravedad de un cuchillo de lanzar simplemente apoye la hoja plana


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sobre el dedo ndice y vaya corrindola hacia la zona del mango hasta lograr el balance, esto sirvepara saber si lanzarlo por la hoja o por el mango, NO OLVIDAR LAS DISTANCIAS.

Como habrn notado an no hemos tocado el tema del blanco como puntera, slo estamosaprendiendo a clavar el cuchillo en el blanco, por sobre todas las cosas, reitero, practicar, practicar ypracticar. Si esto lo pueden hacer con amigos interesados en este deporte, las prcticas sern msamenas y aprendern ms rpidamente, porque cada uno tiene un estilo innato y diferente que puedeayudarnos a corregir una postura o ver en la otra persona qu estamos haciendo bien o mal.

Para cerrar esta introduccin les dir que hay ciento de personas que se dedican a la prctica de estedeporte y se van agrupando y formando clubes, luego inician torneos entre ellos.

G.H

Knife throwing is an art, sport, or variously an entertainment technique, involving an artist skilled in the artof throwing knives, the weapons thrown, and a target.

[edit] A throwing knife

Knife throwing show

The desirable properties for a throwing knife differ from those of a commonpocket knife. Knives used arealmost always one-piece, rather than the traditional knives that have a handle manufactured separately from

theblade. The purpose of this design is to create a durable knife with a balanced distribution of weight.Additionally, some throwing knives are double-edged, although the edges of throwing knives are almostalways dull (to prevent the knife from cutting the thrower's hands in some grips). The knife sticks by

penetration of the sharpened point into the target, hence sharpened edges are unnecessary. As the knife'ssharpness and its ability to hold an edge are of little importance, other factors such as weight distribution,overall weight and especially durability become important. Compared to pocket knives, the steel used tomanufacture a throwing knife should be more malleable and less prone to breakage.

[edit] Basic principles

Knife throwing, whether in a martial orsport application, involves the same basic principles ofmechanics.The objective in each case is for the point to stick into the target with a sufficient amount of force. For thisto be successful accuracy, distance, number of rotations and placement of the body all must be taken intoaccount. A knife rotates during flight. This means that the thrower, assuming s/he is throwing the same wayevery time, must either choose a specific distance for each type of throw or - more practically - make slight
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adjustments to placement of the knife in the hand as well as angle of release and rotation of the wrist.Variations in throw technique can be combined to allow the thrower to stick the knife into a target up to 60feet away. Throwers may additionally make use of these adjustments while throwing off-center, aroundcorners, and while running.

[edit] Spear or arrow style

"Spear" or "arrow style" or "combat style" knife throwing is an alternative throwing style practiced by amajority of knife throwers in the army. The principal difference between this style and standard knifethrowing is that in spear style, the knives are thrown so that they fly straight into the target with little or norotation, in the manner of an arrow or a thrown spear. This is usually accomplished by a throw thatresembles a shot put, accompanied by a slight downward flick of the wrist as the knife is released, in orderto cancel out momentum accumulated in accelerating the knife. Spear style is considered more difficult thanstandard knife throwing, and is somewhat less accurate, but has the advantage that the thrower does notneed to gauge the distance to the target or choose a number of rotations. Thus, in theory, it is more useful asa martial art. Spear style throwers usually use smaller knives - between 5 and 10 inches in length - thantypical knife throwers do. They also tend to use knives balanced with more weight towards the handle.

[edit] Sport

In the USA and in Europe, there are communities of people pursuing knife throwing as a sport, similar toarchery. Groups such as IKTHOF (International Knife Throwers Hall of Fame, USA), AKTA (AmericanKnife Throwers Alliance, USA) and Eurothrowers (European Throwing Club "Flying Blades", EU) sponsorevents, demonstrations and competitions. Those are an opportunity for the throwers to exchange knowledge,compare their performances, and enjoy the amiable atmosphere common to those events.

The competition itself consists, in the most common form, of a series of straight throws aimed at a set ofstandard wooden targets. Similar to an archery target, competition knife throwing targets have a bullseye

surrounded by one or more rings. A sticking knife scores points. The thrower must be standing at least a setdistance away from the target, with higher distances for more challenging events.

IKTHOF, based in Austin, Texas, keeps a ranking of its members based on their performance during thesesponsored competitions. The scores achieved at Eurothrowers events can be examined at the meetings'reports.

[edit] Martial arts

Although it was popularized in America in the late 19th century by traveling acts such as the Barnum &

Bailey Circus, the history of knife throwing dates much further back. The art of knife throwing was firstused in martial arts or hunting applications. It has been incorporated into the martial disciplines of theJapanese as well as some African and Native American tribes. In such cases, throwing a weapon whenfighting is generally thought of as a risk. If unsuccessful it can leave the thrower without a weapon.However, many warriors traditionally carried two or more weapons at the same time.

[edit] Military

Military personnel (usually spec-ops) seldom use "normal" knives for throwing, because lack ofrepeatability makes training and certification difficult. The French GIGN's knife has a liquid mercury vialhidden inside to help automatically orient the blade forward when thrown [citation needed]. The Soviet Spetznaz(special forces) throwing knife is actually a blade gun[citation needed], which uses a very strong coil spring hiddenin the handle to propel the blade forward on the press of a button. The holster carries extra blades, becausehitting a tree or other wooden object embeds the blade so much, removal by human strength may beimpossible.
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[edit] Entertainment

Knife throwing as entertainment is part of a group of performance arts sometimes known as the impalementarts.

[edit] Representations

Knife throwing has made many appearances in film, most prominently in action movies such asKill Bill,Gangs of New York, and V for Vendetta. Many films, with the above-mentioned as notable exceptions,depict the act of throwing a knife in an unrealistic manner. Compared to the standard Hollywood throw(holding the knife by the tip, between thumb and forefinger), competition knife throwers usually hold theknife either along the length of the blade close to the center of gravity or by the handle. Additionally, thenumber of rotations within a distance of five to thirty feet should be no more than two.

Steven Millhauserwrote a story called "The Knife Thrower." It was published in the March 1997 issue ofHarper's and collected in The Knife Thrower and Other Stories.

While nowhere near as popular as the use of guns and swords in video games, a few games havesuccessfully adopted knife throwing into their gameplay, such as in "XIII (video game)" (2003), which usedrealistic single-piece knives, "Conker's Bad Fur Day" (2001) which used kitchen knives that when usedwithout targeting would travel straight towards where an opponent's head was at the time of throwing, and

perhaps most notably "GoldenEye 007" (1997) which could be configured in multiplayer to only allowthrowing knives in an arena, and featured a single player mission that involved breaking out of a jail cellunarmed. In "Assassin's Creed" (2007), the protagonist, Altair, is very adept at throwing knives, and anytargets hit will die instantly. Knife throwing is also prominent in the 10th game of the " Fire Emblem" series.

Willie Garvin, the main supporting character in the Modesty Blaise series of books by Peter O'Donnell isdepicted as an expert knife thrower. He can draw and throw in a fraction of a second and accurately strike

targets up to ninety feet away with the blade or hilt of his custom-made knives.

[edit] External links

Knife throwing technique International Knife Throwers Hall of Fame (USA) American Knife Throwers Alliance (USA) European Throwing Club "Flying Blades" (EU)

Retrieved from "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knife_throwing "

Article for American Survival Guide Magazine

By John Bailey

Introduction: Because of my experience in knife throwing, I have hadhundreds of people corner me into giving impromptu knife throwing lessons.

From these lessons I found that it was best to show the right way to startand the way to practice along with the practical application, before theyreach the, "if I can't do what was on the tube, what's the use", state. Thisway students will find a satisfaction of the sport similar to that felt by first
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time Karate students or other like disciplines. They will have the confidenceto work for their personal best and look for new ways to apply what theyhave learned. In this article, I intend to break down movie misconceptionspertaining to knife throwing that have sprung up as of late. I will explain,with pictures, showing proper stance, methods of correction and distancejudging. Also, types of knives for particular applications and answers to the

five most asked questions in hunting and knife throwing in a survivalsituation. This will also include where the throwing stars and darts fit in,along with their lethal capacity. What knives should be thrown by the bladeor by the handle, what knives not to get for throwing and emphasis onnever throwing you only knife. The above mentioned impromptu lessonspretty much started 25 years ago and have never stopped. When at allpossible I give a helping hand to anyone who asks. Formal classes firststarted while I was in Ranger Training, in the Army. As a member of theAmerican Knife Throwers Alliance since 1972, I have contributed to their

newsletter, I've given a number of demonstrations to boy Scouts andCentennial Frontier Events with both tomahawks and knives. Besides thenormal classes on knife throwing, I taught classes on knife utilization at the1985 Florida State Rendezvous and National American Pistol and RiffleAssociation Rendezvous held in Tenn. I am an officer with the CentralFlorida A.P.R.A. Unit and knife craft instructor. As a subscriber to yourmagazine for the past five years, I'm sure my fellow readers and you willfind this article is very informative and interesting. Thank you for your timeand consideration; hope to hear from you soon.

KNIFE THROWING, FACT OR FICTIONBy John L. Bailey

Interest in knife throwing can start at an early age while watching a myriadof Hollywood characters perform the seemingly impossible. Fascinated youcan watch Robin Hood casually pluck a dagger from his belt and unerringlypin a rich Normans' money purse to a convenient tree. Jim Bowie was noslouch either, portrayed by Alan Ladd, it was nothing for him to drop a bad

guy running through the woods; lit only by a full moon. And who could everforget the dazzling and sneaky under hand throw James Colburn deliveredto the poor unfortunate in the movie, "The Magnificent Seven".Moviemakers for years have worked hard at reinforcing these mythspertaining to the capabilities of knives. They delight at leading patrons tobelieve that this sort of trickery could be common place, with anyone whotook a notion to take knife in hand and heave it, in the manner the scriptwriter fantasized at the typewriter, a la Rambo, Jim Bowie, Ninja,Commando, Kung-Fu, etc.

DIFFERENT STYLES IN MOVIES:Let's look at a few examples in which the thrown knife was bigger than life.The most over used movie favorite and by far the most useless throw to


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master, is the open palm style. This has been shown as a fast and deadlythrow, at distances of up to what appears to be 20 feet or so. The truth isyou must be only a few feet from the target; too close for any mistake andsno chance for a second throw. Most often, the knife is seen in a bot, sleeve(opposite hand) or behind the neck rig. The knife is carried this way so itcan be drawn and thrown and leaves the hand with no spin. Avoid knives

with heavy handles, they will want to flip as son as they leave the hand.Nevertheless, because of the grip you still won't generate enough power toget much accuracy. Hold the knife in you open palm, with the thumb on thehandle. Throw with the back of the hand going forward. The knife has to befairly light, because extra weight would mean a tighter grip, causing moreof a chance of missing target alignment. Using this style, it is crucial to havethe knife slip out as soon as the arm is in line with the target. Now it's notto say you can't learn this style or that you can't throw it at a furtherdistance, but there are better styles to use in close. You would be better off

if you held on to the knife and spend the time learning a knife fightingtechnique.

KNIVES NOT TO GET:With all the knives being made nowadays it is easier to point out what youdon't want in a throwing knife, then to try and tell you what knife to buy.Good throwing knives with a throwing life of 20 years or so are hard to find.Most are passed off to look the part but are flawed either in design or steeltemper. Almost all have poor handles. Knives with hollow handles are on

the top of the list, second only to stag in the self-destruction department.Next are models with hilts . . . this is the cross guard between the bladeand the handle. Knives that have the blades affixed only by a small part ofthe handle or continues only partially into it, with the handle materialmaking up the rest of the knives length, are also not good for throwing.Knives made of very high carbon steel (files), thin spring steel blades(kitchen knives) or any combination of same, will not hold up under thecontinuous impact throwing knives are subject to. Folding knives are theworst things you can pick for throwing. I say this because I've never seenone stay together more than a few dozen throws. The hinge pins will loosenor break all together. What I am saying her, is you can definitely throw aKa-Bar, Fairbairn, Puma White Hunter, or for that matter even your favoritebuck folder, just don't fool yourself into thinking it will hold up for anylength of time. If you still want to impress your friends with a well placedthrow, with your Ka-Bar, I suggest you buy up a batch of surplus stock at agun show to practice with, before you throw the one you care about.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A THROWING KNIFE:Look for a knife made of spring steel, form 5/32" to 5/16" thick, temperedto somewhere between 43 to 48 on the Rockwell C scale. I have had goodluck with 440C stainless. . . so far 2 years. I am writing to see if they willhold up like two of my seventeen-year-old Tru-Bal bowie-Axes. Try to figure


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1 to 1.5 oz.'s per inch of overall length; not to exceed 14" nor less than 10".I like 13.5" at 15 oz. Some might like the smaller, heavy blade boot knifestyle. Make sure the handles are of a fibrous stock and held on with heavyrivets. Most handles that have a pommel, or come even with the end, aresubject to slicing rivets off at the interface. There are a few handlessstainless steel knives good for blade throwing for fun, but they are not

much good for anything else.TO THROW BY THE HANDLE OR THE BLADE:There are two basic ways to throw a knife; by the blade or by the handle.No doubt you have seen someone (I am sure you can include yourself) pickup a knife and balance it on their finger and spout, "Umm good balance."Most people hope you won't ask, "what does good balance mean?" Goodbalance is relative only to the use in which it is to be applied. Let's say wefind a knife that is NOT in the category of KNIVES NOT TO GET. How do we

find out how it should be thrown? Most acceptable knives will be good forone style of throw and bad or not so good for the other style, few are goodat both. Here is one of the secrets to throwing a knife. THROW THE HEAVYEND FIRST.

THROWING BY THE HANDLE:A knife that is perfect for the handle throw, has a good balance if it has 1oz. To the inch and the blade is the heavy end. This is, if balanced on thefinger, in the above mentioned manner, the balance point is in the center or

no more than an inch back towards the handle. . . a light handle, hence aheave blade. Hold the knife in the same manner as you would a hatchet,but instead of wrapping the thumb around the handle; lay it along side thehandle, usually on top of the first rivet.

THROWING BY THE BLADE:If a knife with a heavy blade is thrown by the handle, it would seem that aheavy handle would be best for the blade throw. For the most part that istrue, whereas the configuration of the blade is normally not a large concernon a knife thrown by the handle, it must be considered in choosing whichone three methods you will use when throwing by the blade.

FIRST: Daggers, Ice Picks or Stilettos are held in the same manner as athrowing star, with the point just touching the ring finer, if a light weight(floater); or just even with the little finger, if a heavier (Fairbairn or bootstyle). Except for the ice pick; their blades are or should be sharp on bothsides and to throw it any other way is asking for trouble.

SECOND: If the knife is of the hunting style (Ka-Bar, Buck, and mostbayonets), the majority have a false edge. Use what I call a sandwich grip.Marines taught this style for throwing the Ka-Bar and I taught it in the Armyfor bayonets. With sharp edge out, lay the thumb along the center of the


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flat side of the blade and push the finger tips tight to the center of the otherside. This will put the false edge slightly off the meat in the inside of thehand, so when the knife is released the point the point won' drag acrossyour palm. Never throw a SAW BACK knife by the blade, (it will do to yourhand the same as it does to apiece of wood).

THIRD: This method is for the most part used by professionals for stageshows. These knives don't have sharp edges, but do have sharp points. Thegrip used is almost the same as a handle thrower, except the thumb is mostoften put on the to edge.

This concludes the styles used when throwing a knife by the blade.Personally I do not recommend that you spend too much time trying tolearn them: (except perhaps style three if you intend to go professional). Isay this because, I have never seen anyone carry a knife in a sheath handle

down; nor have I seen anyone successfully grab for a SHARP knife andthrow it in a manner that could be in anyway construed as, a better, orfaster way; than a knife thrown by a person of equal skill using the handle.The only reason I teach these styles, in my class, is to show the student thehow and why some knives seem to throw better than others.

UNDER HAND STYLES BY THE HANDLES: Next are two different under handthrows. In the first method the blade is pointed down or forward, and ismost often drawn from a sheath or from a sleeve of the opposite arm. Like

the open palm style, there is not much power in the throw. The knife is heldin a similar manner, except the fingers are lightly wrapped around thehandle. Most people will find that arm and shoulder muscles won't allow youto develop much leverage on the back swing, and because of the limit puton the apex of the throwing curve, it is very important to keep the spin asslow as possible. One complete turn is about max with a light knife, twowith a heavy knife of 13 oz. Or more. This can be remedied and an increasein power obtained with another method.

The second method is more often seen used with a High-Rise upside downbelt sheath on the throwing arm side, or a sleeve drop rig, on the forearmof the throwing arm. The knife is pulled out of the belt sheath by the end ofthe handle and held mostly by the thumb and inside ring finger, with theblade next to the back of the arm. If the sleeve rig is used, use a light knife,and make sure the blade is clear of the sleeve after it drops. The throwitself is the same as the first, except that as the hand is brought back downfrom the back swing, the knife is allowed to pivot between the ring fingerand thumb (light knife) or with more of a full grip with a heavier knife. Atthe instant the knife starts to drop the elbow must be pointing down andthe forearm brought up sharply with the hand, allowing the knife to developa spin, by bending the wrist to 90 degrees pointing up and opening thefingers, in progression, starting with the little finger and the forefinger and


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thumb being last. In this way the knife leave the hand already spinning, andgenerating speed and power. When executed properly with either light orheavy knife you can hardly see it coming, a la, Commando.

THE OVER HAND THROW: So much for show boating. Her is the style thatfor all intense and purpose is the one to learn for hunting or a more true to

life survival scenario. You have the best of all styles when you throw by thehandle, it is effective in that it will get you the most impact, game andcontrol. The knife handle is the first thing in your hand when you reach forit, by mere virtue of design, that is where it is suppose to be held. Unlikethe under hand and the open palm style, the most powerful muscles in thearm and shoulder are used in this style. Whereas the target in the underhand and palm styles have to be a soft tissue points, such as throat,diaphragm or kidneys because the impact needed to get between ribs andvertebra is not developed. The overhand throw can make even a knife of

boarder line weight get maximum penetration. I know of a man in Floridawho put a Tru-Bal Bowie-Axe (13.5" long x 2.0" wide, 3/16" thick with aweight of 15 oz.) into a 275 lb. Boar's right shoulder at a recorded distanceof 75 feet. A second knife was thrown at about 50 feet, to kill the animal,and hit just under the neck and cut through into the chest cavity. Thisexample along with many other show that a throwing knife weighing closeto one pound can indeed put food on the table. The skill level a throw likethat involves means six or more full spins and more luck than I wouldsuggest you can count on; however, you're the one who has to make the

decision. A lost knife could be results of failure. More on when to throw.THE STANCE: There are two basic stances for the over hand throw. Startwith the shoulders square to the target, if you are right handed put your leftfoot forward (reverse if left handed), start the windup as the knife comespast the head, unweight the left foot, slide or take a small step forward asthe knife is brought forward, settling your weight back down exactly at thesame time as the knife leaves the hand.

In other stance, the left foot is back. When the knife is drawn back asdescribed, start your step forward. Continue the stride as the knife comeforward. The step must be completed with your foot settling back downexactly as the knife leaves the hand. This will give you more power, but canlead to a tendency to lose sight alignment. If you can keep a god eye on thetarget and control the bobbing, this is a good stance to use when walking orrunning towards a target. Just remember to start the windup on the rightfoot and throw on the left.

THE WINDUP: The windup starts at the stance ready position; hold botharms in front, foot forward or foot back ready for the step through. Drawthe knife arm back as is if you wee pulling back a bow string or back for afast ball pitch. Leave the opposite arm out for balance and aid in aiming.


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Continue back until the elbow is pointing back ad the forearm is up at a 90degree angle. Take care to have the blade come from the point-up position(at the start of the windup), to pointing straight back or back and slightly tothe opposite shoulder position. From here the wrist and arm are broughtforward as if you were dragging the point with it. When the hand is abouteven with the head, let the opposite arm come down; and here is where the

knife starts its return rotation cycle. The point now comes from the trailing,to the up, and then finally pointing at the target. Her it is released as if ithad suddenly become a red hot coal; DO NOT SNAP YOUR WRIST.

FOLLOW THROUGH: This is where almost all problems start. Try this; Use abaseball for practice. You don't snap your wrist when you throw it do you?Well then, don't do it when you throw your knife, otherwise you will neverbe consistent. Oh maybe you will get OK after awhile, but you will alwaystake forever learning another knife or take longer to change distances.

Bring the cutting edge down as if you were cutting a limb. If you release theknife any time after it has crossed the body it will spin in a oscillatingmanner; so even if it comes in point first, the side spin will more than likelytwist it out of the target. This error is multiplied more so with longer throws.Remember release the knife as it starts to come in line, and let loose as if itwere red hot; DO NOT SNAP YOUR WRIST.

MAKING CORRECTIONS AFTER THE THROW: If all has gone well, your knifeis now stuck firmly in the target; but most of the time this is not the case. If

the knife stuck at all, check the position of the handle. When the handle ispointing up, the knife developed to much of a spin, and would not havestuck at all had you been only a few inches back or had your hand just beena fraction lower on the handle. So move up 6" or so and throw the knifeEXACTLY the same as before. You can't make changes in both distance andyour normal throw (grip, speed, follow-through) and expect to get a feelingor automatic sense of distance. Make every throw at the same speed. Youwill have time later to learn about hard and fast throwing. When the handleis pointing down, the reverse is the case. The knife just barely completed itsspin and there it is, already at the target. This happened because you wereto close to the target or your hand was to far up on the handle. Slide yourright foot back a few inches and throw again; and at the risk of repeatingmyself, make sure you throw it at the same speed. As I mentionedpreviously, in both cases you can make corrections by moving your hand upor down on the handle. Now assuming you threw your first knife, with yourthumb on the first rivet, and the knife stuck in the target, with the handleup, you could slow down the spin by either moving ahead or you could slideyour thumb and hand up, lets say ". The results will be: the knife willleave your hand with a slower spin and the handle will come down. Samething applies with the under thrown knives, handle down. Slide your handdown the handle and you will speed up the spin; therefore bringing thehandle up. This is the method you would use when hunting, as you will read


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later, YOU SHOULD NEVER THROW YOUR ONLY KNIFE. SO, if you make anystopping blow with the first knife and the second is needed, to take thegame, your correction can be made without approaching it. This also appliesfor knives that hit the target and don't stick, keep your eyes at the impactpoint. If the blade is absolutely vertical with the handle up or down, insteadof 6" back up or move ahead 1'. It if comes in backwards, move 2'.

NEVERS TO THROWING YOUR KNIFE: Now that you think you have got itdown pat here is the rule of the combat knife thrower:

1. No fight has ever been stopped to retrieve a thrown knife that's missedits target. When it's gone it's gone!2. Never throw your only knife: Except if someone is turning their gun onyou to shoot you.3. Never use a thrown knife as the key to an action: Patrol, rescue, i.e.

Trying to takeout a sentry.WHEN TO THROW YOUR KNIFE1. To save a life: When yours or someone else's life depends on it.2. For taking game: When others are also looking for food, or for you.3. As a diversion: they never heard anything but, "something strange isgoing on here?"4. Running away: Keep the chasers guessing, i.e. Rounding corners.5. As a signal: Thrown at a mob or gang leader will show you mean

business and back them off. Where your gun fire could alert more or drawattention.6. As back off warning: Thrown at a mob or gang leader will show you meanbusiness and back them off. Where your gun fire could alert more or drawattention.

THROWING STARS AND OTHER THINGS TO THROW: No class is completeuntil I hear someone ask, "What about throwing stars, spikes, or the Springpropelled knives (the copy of the Russian shooting knife)." Stars and spikesalong with cheaply made knives have one use as far as I am concerned,besides to play with; that is, when thrown from a safe distance at someonei.e. flight of stairs, a window, they can be annoying obstacles to anyonewho is chasing you. Just imagine a person tossing one at you ever time yourounded a corner. However, you should be aware the lethal capacity of thestar is highly overrated. This goes for the other goodies such as the: Ninjathrowing spikes, spiked lead shot, darts, etc. I suggest the longer thespikes, the better, also keep in mind that if you don't hit our target at leastonce they will be picking the stuff up and throwing it back at you or keep itfor a fight later. So practice using the same style as you would with adagger or ice pick, and use the cheapest stars, spikes and knives aspossible. The spring propelled shooting knife has the hitting power of a fullthrust what???? At a reasonable distance, 10' or so; with a threatening


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distance up to maybe 20'. But keep in mind it is a three part system, thespring handle, the blade cover, and the knife itself. After the knife is shotthe other the other two parts are dead weight and without them the knifeain't much. When cocked it is like a loaded gun, with the safety pin pulled, aloaded gun with a hair trigger. Generally, the knife has only one goodpurpose, that is to aim it and push the button, then watch your $80.00 plus

knife go and hope you have another to reload, and five minutes or longer todo it.

Some of the tips listed may be questioned, by some people because I didnot describe the way they were taught by their Dad or some other teacher.I am not saying theirs is wrong or mine is right, as far as I know there isnothing etched in stone that says, "This is the way, period". In the yearsI've instructed throwing, I have thrown just about everything that can bethrown, and a few things that can not or should not. From this I found the

best way to stop people from using or doing the things that don't work. Myintent is to make your time learning as easy as possible and to clear updisillusionment you may feel the first time you realize that you won't beable to throw your knife as far and as fast and as deadly s the journalist ormovie producers would like you to believe. But you will find the morerealistic uses will be as much or more rewarding, and you find that youhave just been hooked on an old tradition that's making a strong comeback.

Book "The Art of Throwing: Practical Instruction for betterTechniques"

bibliographic details

Over the past years, the author Amante P. Marias Sr., has thrown differentobjects for a total of 1.3 million times. This book contains the knowledgeand experience he gained, and also tells the story of his throwing journey.

The basic concepts of throwing are presented in the first chapter. Grips,throwing methods, spins in flight, target construction, distance correctionsand the like are covered. The presentation is a very condensed one, so that

beginners will often not easily understand. Advanced throwers will find newways to group their own experiences, as they question mentioned facts, andafter some thinking realise that the author is right, but has omitted theexplanation. (Mind you, I do not agree with everything, for example I thinkwood is a generally better target material than cardboard, and I would also

take a different view on the physics of releasing a knife.)

The different varieties of knives are presented in the next section, before a very brief section on axes.

The entire second half of the book is on alternative throwing weapons like spears, Japanese and Chinesespecialties including stars, shuriken and coins, or the ordinary dart. As with the knives, for each implementthere are explanations as to how to grip and throw it, illustrated by many photos. Additionally, the authorgives diagrams with his learning curve for each throwing object, detailing how his sticking rate developed
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over the months. (Beginners can not expect to start with such a high success rate as the author who hasmastered several throwing styles already.) Since Marias has a background in martial arts, self defenserelated aspects are mentioned frequently.

What I am missing in this book are some practical hints as to the impact of grips on the throw, backgroundon the history of throwing the various weapons, and a mention of the very active communities of sport axeand knife throwers in Europe and the USA.

Altogether, the book contains the insightful experiences of a master thrower, albeit in a very condensedform. Beginners will often wonder, but advanced throwers will love the chance to read about such a varietyof throwing objects.

Books and videos on knife throwingAs with every sport, there is no such thing as the one and only correct technique, but rather many differentstyles, and you will like some better than others. So, if you want to get deeply involved in this sport, youshould read some literature, learn some different techniques. But I do recommend that you first read the

pages here at Knifethrowing.info thoroughly to learn some basic facts, so that you will be able to tell ifsomething in the book is perhaps not completely right (as it is sometimes the case).

The list is quite short for now, as I did not read that many English books, but you can check with thecommented lists at Throwerand Sticking Point.

Recreational Knife Throwing (John Bailey)

Recreational Knife Throwing II (John Bailey)

The Fundamentals of Knife, Hawk and Axe Throwing with an

Introduction to the Impalement Arts (David R. Adamovich)

Le lancer de couteaux (Michel Dujay)

Knife Throwing: A Practical Guide (Harry K. McEvoy)

Knife & Tomahawk Throwing: The Art of the Experts (HarryK. McEvoy)The Art of Throwing: Practical Instruction for better

Techniques (Amante P. Marias, Sr.)

DVD Recreational Knife Throwing byJohn BaileyBailiwick Enterprises, Floridafirst published in 1999Order here / read review

This is a very nice video to get started with the sport of knife throwing, but it also offers interesting chaptersfor the advanced thrower. The author, John Bailey, has taught many people how to throw knives using his"brach-chopping" technique.

We have a review of this video online, and you canbuy it on DVD in our online-shop.

DVD Recreational Knife Throwing II byJohn Bailey
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Bailiwick Enterprises, Floridafirst published in 2001

Read review

This is the sequeal toRecreational Knife Throwing(obviously :-) You will be see demonstrations of somenew throwing techniques, and John will show you round his collection of throwable objects. The video isintended for the advanced thrower.We have a review of this video online.

DVD The Fundamentals of Knife, Hawk and Axe Throwing with an Introduction to the Impalement

Arts byDavid R. AdamovichDr. David Adamovich, Freeport, New Yorkfirst published in 2001Order here / read review

"The Great Throwdini", the knife flinging minister, shows his skills and demonstrates his style of throwing.Also included is an introductionary chapter for beginners. We have a review of this video online, and you

canbuy it on DVD in our online-shop.

Le lancer de couteaux by Michel DujayMichel Dujay, Francefirst published in 1996Read review

The author shows how to throw pocket knives in such a way that they stick in the target. He always uses ablade grip, even on the handle. We have a review of this video online.

Knife Throwing: A Practical Guide byHarry K. McEvoyCharles E. Tuttle Company, Inc.first published in 1973ISBN-0-8048-1099-0about 6,95 $

The standard; The author was a master of the art and founder of the famous Tru-Balance Knife Company.Here you will find explanations of different grips and throwing styles. They are all tailored for the heavyAmerican throwing knives, but most can be adapted for lighter ones. Theprofessional style used by circus-artists and professionals is also detailed.

A whole chapter is dedicated to the throwing of tomahawks and axes, another presents famousknifethrowers and their stunts.

Knife & Tomahawk Throwing: The Art of the Experts byHarry K. McEvoyCharles E. Tuttle Company, Inc.first published in 1988ISBN-0-8048-1542-9about 9,95 $

This sequel to Knife Throwing: A Practical Guide first sums up the the basics presented there. The historyof knife throwing is interesting to read. A part of the book deals with the throwing of tomahawks.In the remaining chapters are little anecdotes about famous knife throwers, their lives and stunts (in moredetail than in the first book).
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The Art of Throwing: Practical Instruction for better Techniques byAmante P. Marias,Sr.Tuttle Publishingfirst published in 2007ISBN-978-0804837873about 16,95 $ / 15 Euroread review

For the advanced knife thrower, who wants to put its own experiences into a bigger concept. For those thatwant to read about throwing weapons beyond axes and knives.

Trajectory of the throwing knife and right distance to the target

In the beginning, you try to always make thesame movements with your arm and body,

with always the same force. Having masteredthat constant movements for the throw, youcan now find the distance from the targetwhere the knives stick if you throw themwith this movements.

In his flight towards the target, the knife will turn around his center of gravity, blade and handle will taketurns pointing to the target. The throwing knife will rotate in a way that, if thrown from the handle, the bladewill go downwards at first.The first distance for a stick is about three meters from the target (Always measured from the tip of your

rear foot!). Grip the knife at the handle, throw it, and after one full rotation it will stick. If it doesn't, moveback or forward a little (see chapter on training).The second distance is about one meter behind the first. Now you grip the knife at the blade ( if possible),and after one and a half turn the knife will stick. It is important that you do not have to do anything to getthis turns, they will just come. (In fact, later you will be trying to get less rotations to be in better control ifyou throw from further away.)From the third distance, you once again use a handle grip, just now you get two full rotations of the knife tillit sticks. Because you always throw with the same movements and force, the knife rotates in the samemanner, and flies with the same speed every time. Therefore you can calculate or feel how much you haveto go back so that the knife has completed another half turn. The pros with many years of experience canthrow from distances where the knives make seven full rotations! Once you found your distance, you shouldmeasure it off and note it down. Note that the distance will slightly differ the next training day.You might want to check out the turn-distance formula at StickingPoint.

(By changing your grip on the knife a little, you can stick it from distances between those of half turns. If you take more of theknife in your grip, it will spin slower, allowing you to move a little bit back from the target. Gripping it more towards the end willincrease the spin.)

Grips for throwing

The easiest is the hammer grip, where you hold the knife as you would hold a hammer. You may place

your thumb on the spine (=small side) of the knife, some people find they can aim better this way. Yourwrist has to be absolutely stiff when throwing, otherwise you will get uncontrollable rotations. If the knife issharp, you should only use this grip on the handle! The hammer grip is primary used with heavier knives,such as adopted bowie knives.
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Thepinch grip is used to throw light knives fast, suddenly and with force (that is some stress for your poorarm :-( The knife has to be gripped (pinched) between thumb and index finger, in a manner that it is a

straight extension of your arm. You can hold it with the 2/3 of yourfinger that are next to your hand and the thumb (compare picture#1, my preferred method), or only with the fingertips. If you grip aheavier knife or want to throw further, you can additionally useyour middle finger. If the edges are not sharp, you can use this gripalso on the blade.

If the knife is not sharpened, ablade grip is no problem, just do it as described above. If the blade issharpened on only one side, you can carefully hold it with your thumb and middle finger as shown in picture2. I prefer not to have the knife extend such a long way in my palm, it might cut. Of course, the sharp edgefaces out of your palm! You have to hold the knife so tight that it does not leave your hand early, but not tootight, especially not cramped. Only a relaxed throw is a successful one!

There are many other grips, especially from Asia, but the ones described above are the easiest and mostcommon. John Bailey`s technique uses variant of the hammer grip that I like. Thrower has a picturedoverview of different grips.

John Bailey's knife throwing style

See also the review of the teaching video

John Bailey is a professional knife thrower I met in Solingen, Germany. Hewas visiting the factory where two throwing knives that he designed (theTan-Kri and the Starlight), are manufactured. And on this occasion, hetaught me his throwing technique which I think is very easy to learn,efficient and elegant.

Notice: This page ist a kind of summary for the throwing HowTo. It explains some things again, only thistime in the light of a special throwing style. You should have read the knife throwing HowTo

before you read on.After reading this page, you can have a look at the picture sequence of John throwing a knife.

The grip (Explanation for right-handers):Hold the knife like you would a hammer, just put your thumb onto the narrow side of the knife (see picture).This is called a modified hammer grip. Now pull the knife out of your hand, until only your little fingerstill touches it. This facilitates the release and such stabilizes the flight.If the knife is not sharp, you can try this grip as a blade grip. Be sure to let the tip extend at least 1cm out of

your palm, or else it could hurt you.For his very sharp Tan-Kris, John uses a special blade grip: the thumb is on one, the four remaining fingers on the other flat sideof the blade, the knife is clamped tightly between them. The little finger gives support to the tip, the other three are a little apart.You will need strong fingers for this to work, though!

The stance (see picture on the left):Your right foot is the back one. In front of it,scratch your distance mark into the ground ormark it with a stone. Your left foot is in front,the gap between them is about two feet (youractual foot, not the measure). The heels arenearly on a line. Your two feet form a 45

angel (left 12 o`clock, right 13:30 o`clockposition) or wider. Both knees are bent,especially the front one. The weight rests

primarily on the ball of your back foot (behind
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your toes).Both arms point to the target. Keep them lax and loose! The hands lightly touch each other.

The throw:

John has developed an exercise that will teach your muscles the right movement sequence: Imagine you arestanding in basic stance, your right knee touches a low garden fence. On the other side of the fence there isthe branch of a tree that you want to chop off with your knife. Unfortunately, the branch is far on the otherside, so you have to stretch to reach it. Now wind up the arm with your knife and try to chop the branch (see

picture below). It would be best if you had a real stick that you try to chop (perhaps really a branch, held bya friend).After you did this for some time, take away the stick, make the swing and just let go the knife as it pointsexactly to the target. That`s it!

Just to have it really all on one page, here the whole movement, starting from basic stance: The right hand with the knifegoes back with a natural movement, until the elbow is on a level with the shoulder (in the picture below, the elbow is not highenough!). The blade points to the sky, the hand is a little behind your back. Now you can begin the smooth movement: The handswings towards the target, arm and shoulder do extend (the branch is far away). The knife glides out of your hand as it pointsexactly to your target point. Do continue the forward movement; It is called the follow through. You can see the whole motion in

a special picture sequence.

To get a right-angled stick (or at least some stick), read the training-section of this manual. Please changethe distance to the target only in steps of at most 10cm! Don`t forget to update your distance markaccordingly.John Bailey has published an instructional video where, among other things, he explains this method. Youcanbuy the video here at knifethrowing.info.

John holds the stick behind the imaginary fence that Ishall try to chop. My right elbow should be higher!

O Arremesso de Facas: Conceitos Bsicos

"O po cai sempre com a manteiga pra baixo."

Isto porque a distncia da mesa ao cho, em geral, spermite meia volta ao po! O mesmo princpio se aplicaao Arremesso de Facas: a gente tem que entender onmero de voltas que a faca d, da mo ao alvo, paraacertar de ponta. Assim, o arremesso bsico o chamado"arremesso de meia-volta", onde a faca descreve meiavolta entre a mo e o alvo. realizado entre 1,80 e 2,40metros do alvo, dependendo do tamanho da faca e do
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arremessador, do estilo, fora, etc. Esse arremesso feito segurando a faca pela lmina. O p frentenormalmente o oposto mo que lana; a faca deve ser "solta" da mo (deslizar, quando se abrem osdedos) e no ser jogada no momento em que o antebrao fica alinhado com o alvo.

Deixe a prpria faca seguir o movimento que ela vai encontrar o alvo da forma certa. O movimento dearremesso de facas semelhante ao de um golpe cortante com uma espada. O brao nunca deve cruzar ocorpo, e sim seguir paralelo. Depois do arremesso, continue o movimento at a mo descansar naturalmentena altura da coxa (follow-through).

O segredo repetir sempre exatamente os mesmos movimentos e, ao contrrio do que normalmente sepensa, manter o pulso firme, como se estivesse "travado".O "joguinho" de pulso faz a faca girar alm donecessrio. Olhe sempre para o alvo e no para a faca!

Talvez a lio mais importante do Arremesso de Facas que os arremessos so feitos alternando- se aempunhadura entre a lmina (ponta) e o cabo da faca.Assim, como dissemos, o arremesso de meia volta feito pela lmina. O segundo arremesso, feito aproximadamente entre 3 e 3,60 metros do alvo, feito pelocabo, e chamado de "arremesso de uma volta". Depois, vem o "arremesso de uma volta e meia" (entre uns4 e 4,50 metros) que volta a ser feito pela lmina. A regra , todos os arremessos mltiplos de meia volta so

feitos pela lmina, os de uma volta pelo cabo.Dica: aprenda a acertar suas distncias contando passos at o alvo e marcando no cho os pontos de ondevoc consegue fincar as facas. Isso ajuda muito no comeo.

MesserwerfenLe lancer de couteauxO Arremesso de FacasKnife throwing

The physics of knife throwing

It is important to keep in mind that a knife throw happens instinctively, without thinking, much like walkingor riding a bike. You must not try to think of the throw! Helpful notions like "release when the knife is

pointing exactly at the target" are necessary to learn the motion sequence, but your brain will automaticallyadjust to release the knife in the right moment (a little earlier). Another example for this is "holding higher".Here too, you just can`t explain what exactly you change in your throw.The following explanations are just for the sake of completeness, for those who are curious to learn about

the physics involved in a knife throw. Michael, thank you very much for the drawings and your thoughts onthe topic.

Aaron Roberts observed some phenomena while throwing knives, and tries to find the physical reasonsbehind them. He sometimes comes to different conclusions than I.
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How does the knife leave the hand?

If someone is new to throwing, he will always be told to release theknife when it points exactly at the target. This advice, which doeswell as a helping notion, is given by many books as well. But inreality, the knife is released earlier.Describing it with regard to physics, the following happens: Thehand makes about a circular motion around the shoulder joint.The movements in the elbow joint just change the radius of thecircle and will be ignored.

Once released, the knife will fly on tangentially to the circular path (see the pink 90 angle of the trajectoryto the radius, and the picture; the knife is gripped by the blade!). Perhaps some of you remember the

experiment in physics at school, when the teacher swung a weight on a string around his head and then letgo?If you were to release the knife exactly when pointing to the target (blue line), it would fly straight to theground. Rather, it must be released when the tangent of the circular path of the swing points exactly at thetarget (upper red line), or better a little earlier, because the ideal tangential trajectory will be affected bygravity (lower red line).In the very moment when releasing the knife, it will be about perpendicular to the ground, then start

to turn. The arm will go on in his downward swing (follow through).In this case, personal perception and reality diverge. At first, based on my experience, I could not believe Irelease the knife that early. But it has to be that way, physics proves it, and some other things: whenreviewing the slow motion sequences in his video, David Adamovich discovered that his knives leave the

hand when being perpendicular to the ground, and Tim Valentine came to the same conclusion after doingsome video analysis (he took this fact into account when writing his distance-turns-formula; 2 turns reallyare 2). Below, there are some photos taken immediately after the release of the knife, at the ThrowerMeeting 2002 in Mncheberg (thank you, press photographer Johann Mller from Dbberin).

Photos which prove that the knife leaves the hand when being perpendicular to the ground:
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The rotation of the knife (theory)

As mentioned above, the throwing movement follows a circular path around the shoulder joint. During the

throwing movement, the knife changes its angle to the ground (), like a watch hand. The value of thechanged angle per time is called angular velocity in physics. After releasing the knife, it will flyforward and continue to rotate around its center of gravity with the same angular velocity it had during thethrowing movement. At the end of the throwing movement, the tip of the blade goes down (if you areholding it at the handle for the throw, that is), and so it will during the flight: tip going down, handle comingup. Thus, if your knife reaches the target with the handle pointing up, it has turned too much, and you mustgo nearer to the target to allow less time for rotation.The rotation of the knife around its center of gravity depends on how fast you are changing the angle of theknife (=) during the throwing movement. Now, if you do minimise the circle of the movement by notextending your arm, keeping it bent, throwing with usual speed will result in a faster rotation of the knife(higher ), because in the smaller circle it takes less time to move the knife for a certain angle. Accordingly,

you can also slow down the rotation using a larger circle, extending your arm. This is also accomplished bythe technique of "leaning in", where you stretch the throwing movement towards the target, making it intoan oblong oval. With respect to the angular velocity, this oval acts like a larger circle ( slower rotation).
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It is very interesting to note that the velocity of your throw has no impact on the distance the knife willtravel during one full rotation!

Proof: The angular velocity (angle per time t) can be measured in radian, its unit is then 2 / t . The

distance d the knife travels while completing one full rotation is his forward velocity Vfmultiplied by thetime needed to complete the rotation:

d = Vf (2 / ) (formula 1)

The forward velocity Vfof the knife equals its circumferential velocity Vc at the moment of release. Vc is thepart of the circular arc (with the radius r measured from the shoulder joint to the center of gravity of theknife) that is covered by the knife per time unit, and with already being in radian, the formula is(circumference equals r 2):

Vf= Vc = r (formula 2)

Inserting formula 2 into formula 1 yields:

d = r 2 (formula 3)

The distance d which the knife travels during one full rotation hence only depends on the radiusof the throwing movement, not on the force or speed of the throw!

The last formula also explains why axes (and large knives) travel longer distances during one full turn: theircenter of gravity is well away from the hand, making the radius r of the circular throwing movement bigger.

The rotation of the knife (applied)

The formula d = r 2 (formula 3) derived above is of little use practically, since the radius r is not known.The throwing movement is not an exact circle, but a bent curve, and the relevant radius r is the one of thecurve at the moment of release. The conclusion that the parameter d (traveled way/full rotation) onlydepends on the distance (radius r) of the shoulder joint to the center of gravity of the knife remains true(presuming that the throwing movement itself is not changed, of course).

Because the arm length of the thrower remains constant, and only the radius changes with different throwing

devices, it is possible to empirically determine the parameter d for throwing devices of different length.Experiments yielded the following diagram:


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Here, lg is the whole (general) length of a knife, ls is the distance or location of the center of mass, whichwill be assumed to be at lg/2, because well balanced throwing knives have their center of gravity in themiddle. With axes, the center of gravity is nearly exactly at the end of the handle, hence we set ls equal tolg. Therefore, the lg axis in the diagram is for the knives, ls for the axes.

Example:A knife with a length of 30cm (lg = 0.3m) would travel around 2m while completing a full turn.An axe with a handle length of 30cm (ls = 0.3m) would need about 3.5m for that according to the diagram.

These values are true for a normal throw using the hammer grip. Due to different grip variations and otherfactors, the real values can scatter around the ones given (yellow area in the diagram).

Knife throwers know that they can slow down the rotation of a knife by taking more of it into the hand,holding it more towards the middle. This results from the fact that the knife needs more time to clear thehand after the release, whilst the hand continues to travel downwards, pushing onto the handle. This slowsdown the rotation, which normally would have the handle going up. The technique of throwing the knifewith the thumb on its spine slows down the rotation for the same reason.

Another alteration of the grip does slow down the rotation: do not hold the knife so that it is a straightextension of your horizontally outstretched forearm, but bend it slightly back up. After being released, theknife can now not easily slide out of the hand, but has to work against the front fingers, tumbling over them,thus adding spin.

Trajectory and speed of a throwing knife

The speed of a thrown knife depends of course on the power of the thrower and on the throwing techniqueemployed. There are reliable experiments which clock the speed of a ball thrown by a handball player at upto 120 km/h. But those were professionals.
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David Adamovich made an experiment to determine the speed of throwing knives: In front of abackground that had vertical lines every 3 inches, aknife was thrown with "normal" speed across adistance of 3.4m. The flight was filmed with 60frames/second (KnifeThrowing.info has seen thevideo), and the speed of the knife calculated as

being around 50km/h. Do note that the knife turnsand hence for the impact on the target the rotationalspeed would have to be added.

A very similar experiment was done by a TV teamreporting on ourBig Throwers Meeting 2007. (Thesomewhat lurid report by German national TVchain Pro7/Galileo can be viewed here.) Theresults are very accurate, since the two test-throwers were filmed with a high-speed camera that

could record several hundred pictures per second. The knife speeds of 55 km/h and 61 km/h reported weresomewhat higher the one given by Adamovich. However, the faster speed was observed with a very fast

thrower (Gregor Paprocki) who throws all his body towards accelerating his bayonet.Knife throwers will most probably throw less hard, hence slower, at short distances, than they would forlong ones. This is partly so due to the fact that they fear the bounces of the knives from the target, which can

be dangerous at short range. Long throws (> 6m) are done harder, keeping the arch of the trajectory flat dueto increased speed. The hope is achieving a higher accuracy, because one can focus better on the target. Butas already shown, this is of no help as the knife is not on the line eye-target on release.

Figure 1

The slower the speed of the throw, the higher the arch of the trajectory must be, hence the real distancetraveled to the target will increase (see Figure 1, green curve). As alreadyshown, the distance a knife travelsduring one full turn does not depend on the initial speed of the throw. So, in theory one should be able tocontrol any over- or underspinning of the knife as it hits the target (as higher initial speed results in a shorter
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distance traveled to the target).

In reality, this would only be the case if the distance the knife really traveled to the target (Figure 1, greencurve) were significantly different to the distance to the target (Figure 1, distance d). This can be calculatedusing the formula for the trajectory of an angular throw (see Figure 1, formula y(x) ). A graphicalrepresentation of the results is shown in Figure 2:

Figure 2

Four different throws with initial speeds Vc between 35km/h and 100km/h were examined, the formula forthe trajectory of the knife (see Figure 1, formula y(x) ) being used to calculate the corresponding angles ofthe throw. The angle of 45 degrees is a special case, it allows to achieve the furthest throws, a knife (or anyother object) thrown at this angle with a speed of 35km/h will just about make it to the target. The distance dto the target has been set as 10m, the target point is on the same level as the point of release (so we arelooking for y = 0). The following is a chart with the speed of the throws, corresponding angles and

corresponding real distances traveled on the arch during the flight:Initial speed

[km/h]

Angle of throw

[degree]

Real distance on arch

[m]

35,66 45,00 11,4750,43 15,00 10,1275,18 6,50 10,0299,09 3,72 10,01

Evidently, the difference between the real distance to the target (d = 10m) and the real distance traveled bythe knife on the arch is rather low in the range of 50km/h to 100km/h. Only for very weak throws (35km/h)one can see a significant influence of the speed.

Conclusion: Even for long distance throws one should stick to a relaxed throw.


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How to throw a knife: The throw(Instructions for right handers; Left handers simply switch the side instructions.)

Here you will actually learn how to throw a throwing knife. Let's begin with the stance: your right foot is theback one (toes at distance mark), your left foot is in front, the gap between the two is about two feet (youractual foot, not the measure). The heels are on a line. The two feet form a 45 angel (left 12 o`clock, right13:30 o`clock position) or wider. Both knees are bent, especially the front one. The weight rests primarily

on the ball of your back foot (behind your toes).Both arms are straight and point to the target, which is in the height of the chest. The right arm now makes around and smooth swing to the back, the knife is even behind the head. Then it swings forward towards thetarget, like you wanted to chop off some branch between you and the target. While swinging forward, theweight is shifted to rest on the front foot, the chest followsthis movement. The right shoulder does not move, itremains in a (tilted) line with the left.As the knife arm is about in line with the left one and pointsexactly to the target, quickly let the knife go and snap yourfingers back together. Do not stop the swing of the knifethrow, go on with the movement. This is called follow

through and considered very important for a good stick.

Compare the description of John`s knife throwing style,where the knife throw motion sequence is explained again,or the pictures at Throwdini.

If you do not need your left arm for aiming any more, youcan draw it back when beginning the forward movement.Later, you can even employ your hip to add to the power ofthe knife throw (long distance only). As already explained, it is important that you get the whole movementinto your muscle-memory, that you do it the same way every time. Then find the distance where the knives

stick. That is the only way, force or sharp blades won't help.

Lightweight throwing knives (with 100g or even less) float or wobble in the flight if thrown slowly. For them, you can use thesnap throw described here. Be aware that the sudden movements will take a toll on your muscles and joints, it will hurt after awhile!

Hold the knife in a pinch grip. Both arms are straight, stretched out towards the target. Now draw back your right arm. Your upperarm is now in one line with your shoulders. The forearm points to the sky, a little in the direction of your head. The right hand is alittle bit above your ear, and the knife is in one straight line with the forearm.Now draw the knife arm back (behind your back), then jerk it back to the front, towards the target. Even better then a jerkingmovement is one where you draw the knife forcefully to the front, a little bit like the knife was attached somewhere in your backwith a rubber band. The weight is now shifted to your front foot, the chest swings towards the target. Again, the right shoulder

does not move.

Some hints:

When training the throwing movements, take care that the arm is stretched out completely and theknife points exactly to the target when you release it.

To protect your joints, do not stretch out your arm to the fullest, but stop the movement with yourmuscles.

Again: The wrist remains stiff!

The trainingDo try to get practice as often as possible! Twice a week would be perfect, but you will learn it even if youdon`t have that much time to spare.

For the throw, the weight is shiftedto the left foot while the right armwith the knife is brought to thefront.
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To be in good shape for throwing, try to do 20-40 pushups every evening. In the beginning, your fingers willmost likely be too weak, so try to get exercise with finger weights or springs until you feel that the knivesleave the hand when you want them to.Keep the training sessions short at first. After 15 minutes, your arms will get tired, and you loose yourconcentration. You will get very few sticks, and perhaps even adopt a bad throwing style!

Accuracy: Do not aim at a whole area, but a one specific point, e.g. an irregularity in the grain of the wood.Most likely you will notice that your knives do not stick in the target point, but in a specific direction besideit. Now it is easy, just move the point you are aiming at in your mind.For the target point, you have some possibilities: really paint it on the wood, use playing cards or pieces offabric. You can also make rings to throw into. Make sure to sprawl the little targets all over the target board,it will thank you by lasting longer, and you have more diversity for your practice throws. But leave anempty margin around your marks so that not too many knives miss the board.

To correct the distance to the target, you must know how the throwing kniferotates: If thrown from the handle, the blade will first go down. Such, if the knifesticks handle up, it rotated too much, meaning it has traveled too long becauseyou stand too far away from the target. If it sticks handle down, you should move

back. And seeing just the back of the handle, you can proudly call it a perfectstick.Move only a few centimeters back or forth to find the right distance. You shouldonly change one parameter of the throw at a time (e.g. the distance or the grip).That way, you know why your knife suddenly doesn't stick any more.

Knife throwing in the martial artsIn the martial arts, the goal is to find a way to throw the knives so that they do not turn at all or very little.Thus, one would not have to calculate distances when an opponent comes a charging. Several methods to

achieve those no-turn-throws have been proposed, from slightly tipping on the handle with a fingertip whileit leaves the hand so as to stop the rotation, to the system of Vladimir Vasiliev (see this Interview withhim). All of those methods are similar in that they are very hard to learn and only mastered by a few people.Yury Fedin from Moscow now came up with a system that combines several techniques to slow down therotation, which seems easier to learn. He kindly wrote the article below to explain to the knife throwingcommunity how it works. One of his pupils, Yury Ershov, translated it from Russian to English, and alsooffers lessons in wave knife throwing.

I would like to mention that I (Christian Thiel) personally do not condone the use ofknife throwing in self defense, compare also the interview linked above.

The energy of two waves

(Fedin Fight System)

Arremesso+de+Facas

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