Instruções saia com prega 242

8/13/2019 Instrues saia com prega 242

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Plaid Skirt wi th Bias Cut Trim by AnaJanInstructions

A skirt that has two double folded pleats on front and a waist yoke. The pleats gussets

and yoke pieces are cut on bias.

Back top waist yokeSize 40 (waist 76cm, hips 100cm)

Front bottomwaist yoke

Front top waist yoke

Back bottomwaist yoke

Back skirt

panelFront side

skirt panel

Front central

skirt panel

Pleat

gusset

Notions:

Fashion fabric (1.40m x 1.40m) Lining (0.60m x 1.40m) Invisible zipper Interfacing Thread

Cutting pieces

The pattern does not include seam allowances. Before cutting the fabric, add 1.5cm wide

seam allowances (2cm for the bottom hem).

Fashion fabric:

Front side panel cut twice Front central panel cut once on fold Pleat gusset cut twice Front top waist yoke cut once on fold Front bottom waist yoke cut once on fold Back skirt panel cut once on fold


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Back top waist yoke cut once on fold Back bottom waist yoke cut once on fold Front inside waist yoke cut once on fold Back inside waist yoke cut once on foldLining:

Front lining panel cut once on fold Back lining panel cut once on foldInterfacing the pieces

The front and back yoke pieces need interfacing.

The yoke pieces (outside and inside pieces) should be completely interfaced, as displayed

on the images bellow. The interfacing is applied to the wrong side of the fashion fabric.

Pleats

With right sides together, place the central skirt panel over the side skirt panel. Hand

baste the fabric following the pleat line, and making sure your checks are well matched.It is important to perfectly match the pleat lines and to pull your thread through these

lines.The green line on the picture bellow (left) represents the basting line.

Stitch the pleat starting from the top of the panels to the pleat stitch notch (see the rightpicture bellow).


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Repeat the process for the other pleat. Press seams open.

Place the pleat gusset over the pleat seams. Pin the gusset to the pleat seams and sewthem together. Stop stitching few centimeters above the hem line.

Note: You can see that my pleat gussets are a bit longer than the skirt. That happenedquite randomly, and I cropped the gussets later to the skirts length.


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Following the topstitch markings, topstitch the pleat.

Crop the pleat corners.


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This is how your pleat should look like:

The Waist Yoke

With right sides together, pin the top front yoke piece to the bottom front yoke piece and

sew them together. Press the seams open.

Repeat the process for the back yoke.

Tip:When pinning yoke pieces, pin the center of the top yoke to the center of the bottom

yoke first. Then pin the ends together and pin the remaining parts. This will give youasymmetric and neat line.


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The Skirt

With right sides together, pin the front yoke to the front skirts panel. Sew the pieces

together. Press the seams open.

Repeat the process for the bask part of the skirt.

Sew the right seam. Make sure your yoke seams and checks match perfectly.

Sew the left seam, leaving the slit for a zipper. Attach the zipper.Press seams open.

Fold the skirts hem following the hem line. Note that youll have 4 separate pieces tohem: front central piece, two pleat gussets and the front side-back piece. Each piece

should be hemmed separately.


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After hemming all the pieces, sew the gusset slits you previously left open. Make sure

your hem lines match well.

Press the hem.

The Lining

Sew the front yoke piece to the front lining piece. Repeat the process for the back parts.

Sew the right side seam, leaving the slit for easier walk. Note that the linings seams areinverted comparing to the fashion fabrics seams. Sew the left side seam, leaving the slit

for the zipper and leaving the slit for easier walk. Hem the lining.

Press side seams open.

Finishing the skirt

Attach the lining to the skirt. Press the waist seam.

Instruções saia com prega 242

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