Milena Canonero
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Transcript of Milena Canonero
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MILENACANONERO
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Vida
Nascida em 01 de janeiro de 1946.
Figurinista italiana.
Estudou arte, histria do design e
gurino em Gnova.
Primeiros trabalhos para teatro e
propaganda na Inglaterra (anos 60).
Conheceu Kubrick no set de 2001: Uma
Odissia no Espao e foi convidada por ele
para trabalhar em Laranja Mecnica.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milena_Canonero
http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0134382/bio?ref_=nm_ov_bio_sm
Milena Canonero no set de "Barry Lyndon"
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Carreira
Indicaes ao Oscar (Best Costume Design)
1976 Barry Lyndon (dividido com Ulla-Britt Sderlund)
1982 Chariots of Fire
1986 Out of Africa
1989 Tucker: The Man and His Dream
1991 Dick Tracy
2000 Titus
2002 The Affair of the Necklace
2007 Marie Antoinette
2015 The Grand Budapest Hotel
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Academy_Award_for_Best_Costume_Design
http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0134382/awards?ref_=nm_awd
Oscar, 1976 Oscar, 1982 Oscar, 2007 Oscar, 2015
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Carreira
Indicaes ao British Academy Film
Awards (Best Costume Design)
1976 Barry Lyndon
1982 Chariots of Fire
1986 Cotton Club
1987 Out of Africa
1991 Dick Tracy
2007 Marie Antoinette
2015 The Grand Budapest Hotel
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BAFTA_Award_for_Best_Costume_Design
http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0134382/awards?ref_=nm_awd
Raffaella Fantasia accept the award on behalf of Milena Canonero (2015)
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Carreira
Indicaes ao Costume Designers Guild
Awards
Career Achievement Award
2001
Excellence in Contemporary Film
2005 The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou
2005 Ocean's Twelve
Excellence in Period Film
2007 Marie Antoinette
2015 The Grand Budapest Hotel
http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0134382/awards
Milena Canonero at 2015 Costume Designers Guild Awards
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1971 1975 1977 O Desaparecimento 1978 O Laranja Mecnica Barry Lyndon
Expresso da Meia-Noite 1980 1981 Carruagens de Fogo 1983 Fome de O Iluminado
Viver 1984 Give My Regards to Broad Street 1984 Cotton Club 1985 Entre Dois
Amores 1987 Bary - Condenados Pelo Vcio 1988 Tucker - Um Homem E Seu Sonho
1990 Coraes Covardes 1990 Dick Tracy 1990 O Poderoso Chefo III 1992 Mulher
Solteira Procura... 1992 Perdas e Danos 1994 S Voc 1994 Segredos do Corao
1994 Camilla 1994 A Morte e a Donzela 1998 Politicamente Incorreto 1999 Titus
2001 O Enigma do Colar 2002 Solaris 2004 Eros (segment "Equilibrium") 2004 A
Vida Marinha com Steve Zissou 2004 Doze Homens e Outro Segredo 2006 Belle
toujours 2006 2007 Viagem a Darjeeling 2007 I vicer 2010 O Maria Antonieta
Lobisomem 2010 C'tait Marie-Antoinette (TV Movie) 2011 Deus da Carnicina
2013 Castello Cavalcanti (Short) 2014 2015 Last SummerO Grande Hotel Budapeste
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Carruagens de Fogo Cotton Club
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Entre Dois Amores Tucker - Um Homem E Seu Sonho
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A Vida Marinha com Steve Zissou O Lobisomem
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Laranja Mecnica 1971
Directed by: Stanley Kubrick
Production Design by: John Barry
Art Direction by: Russell Hagg, Peter Sheilds.
Gnero: Fico cientca, Drama, Policial
No futuro, o violento Alex (Malcolm McDowell), lder de uma gangue de delinquentes que matam,
roubam e estupram, cai nas mos da polcia. Preso, ele recebe a opo de participar em um
programa que pode reduzir o seu tempo na cadeia. Alex vira cobaia de experimentos destinados a
refrear os impulsos destrutivos do ser humano, mas acaba se tornando impotente para lidar com a
violncia que o cerca.
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(...) pelcula cheia de dualidades
(...) cuecas usadas por cima das calas, que continham enchimento para, supostamente, aumentar seus
rgos genitais; simbolizando a sexualidade explcita.
As roupas so, de certa forma, futuristas. Porm, foram inspiradas no pr punk, na esttica do m dos
anos 60, no incio dos anos 70 e na cultura do pop art (...) movimento artstico que usava do
colorido para ironizar a vida materialista. (...) No podemos nos esquecer tambm das formas
geomtricas.
(...) ar psicodlico
(...) transmitir a atmosfera das contradies e da juventude transviada
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The costumes in ''A Clockwork Orange'' were inspired by then-current London street styles. Malcolm
McDowell, the lm's star, and his gang of stylized rufans wore black boots known in England's youth cults
as ''bovver'' - meaning bother - boots. After ''A Clockwork Orange,'' a new cult, Bovver Boys, reviled for
their tendency to cause ''a spot of bovver,'' as in ''Clockwork Orange,'' sprang up in London. Rock musicians
began sporting the lm's white pants with suspenders, black bowlers and bovver boots. Young women
in the lm wore color-streaked hair, a style that would resurface in punk rock and new wave circles.
Laranja Mecnica supostamente transcorre em um futuro prximo, o que explica a escolha das casas (a do
personagem escritor) e dos edifcios (a priso) mais modernas, quase futuristas. O lme tambm muito
marcado pela esttica de m dos anos 60 e de incio dos anos 70, da pop art: cores muito vivas, quadros
psicodlicos, moda pr-punk, msica pop e eletrnica.
Antoine de Gaudemar
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Campbell's Soup Cans (1962)
Andy Warhol
Marilyn Silkscreen Prints
Andy Warhol
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Barry Lyndon 1975
Directed by: Stanley Kubrick
Production Design by: Ken Adam
Art Direction by: Roy Walker
Costume Design by: Milena Canonero, Ulla-Britt Sderlund
Gnero: Histrico, Aventura, Drama
No sculo XVIII, Barry (Ryan O'Neal), um aventureiro irlands, transgride a lei e obrigado a deixar
sua cidade. Junta-se ao exrcito para logo em seguida tornar-se espio e traidor. Seu principal
objetivo chegar at a aristocracia atravs do casamento. Ele consegue, mas aps um breve
perodo de felicidade, um triste destino o aguarda.
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A myth grew that the Academy Award-winning costumes used in the lm were genuine antique
clothes, but this is only partly correct. Some of the costumes were genuine antiques bought at auction
by costume designer Milena Canonero, while others were custom-made specically for the lm and
were based on clothing of the period and costumes seen in period paintings.
(...) gurinos absolutamente impecveis e primorosos em relao pesquisa, uso de materiais - alguns
tecidos originais do sculo XVIII ou fabricados e tingidos de acordo com a tecnologia da poca
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Many of the shots were composed and lmed
in order to evoke certain eighteenth century
paintings, especially those by Thomas
Gainsborough.
Canonero declares she was inspired by
painting, unveiling her penchant for tableaux-
vivants, and 18th century minor painters: by
Thomas Gainsborough and Joshua Reynolds
for the British atmosphere, by German painters
such as Menzel for the candle-lit scenes. The
resulting costumes are of extraordinary richness.
Mr and Mrs Andrews (about 1750)
Thomas Gainsborough
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Captain George K. H.
Coussmaker (1759-1801)
Sir Joshua Reynolds
Many of the shots were composed and lmed
in order to evoke certain eighteenth century
paintings, especially those by Thomas
Gainsborough.
Canonero declares she was inspired by
painting, unveiling her penchant for tableaux-
vivants, and 18th century minor painters: by
Thomas Gainsborough and Joshua Reynolds
for the British atmosphere, by German painters
such as Menzel for the candle-lit scenes. The
resulting costumes are of extraordinary richness.
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Flute Concert with Frederick the Great in Sanssouci (1850-1852)
Adolph Menzel
Many of the shots were composed and lmed
in order to evoke certain eighteenth century
paintings, especially those by Thomas
Gainsborough.
Canonero declares she was inspired by
painting, unveiling her penchant for tableaux-
vivants, and 18th century minor painters: by
Thomas Gainsborough and Joshua Reynolds
for the British atmosphere, by German painters
such as Menzel for the candle-lit scenes. The
resulting costumes are of extraordinary richness.
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O Iluminado 1980
Directed by: Stanley Kubrick
Production Design by: Roy Walker
Art Direction by: Leslie Tomkins
Gnero: Terror
Durante o inverno, um homem (Jack Nicholson) contratado para car como vigia em um hotel no
Colorado e vai para l com a mulher (Shelley Duvall) e seu lho (Danny Lloyd). Porm, o contnuo
isolamento comea a lhe causar problemas mentais srios e ele vai se tornado cada vez mais
agressivo e perigoso, ao mesmo tempo que seu lho passa a ter vises de acontecimentos
ocorridos no passado, que tambm foram causados pelo isolamento excessivo.
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Titus 1990
Directed by: Julie Taymor
Production Design by: Dante Ferretti
Art Direction by: Massimo Razzi, Domenico Sica (co-art director), Pier Luigi Basile
(supervising art director).
Gnero: Histrico, Drama
Titus Andronicus (Anthony Hopkins) um bem-sucedido general romano que est de volta sua terra
natal, aps vrias vitrias sobre os inimigos do Imprio Romano. Junto consigo traz Tamora (Jessica
Lange), a rainha dos godos, povo inimigo aos romanos, que se torna prisioneira, juntamente com
seus trs lhos. Buscando vingana da morte de 21 de seus 25 lhos na guerra, Titus decide por
matar em nome de sua honra o primognito de Tamora. As consequncias de tal ato se
desencadearo mais tarde, quando Tamora se tornar a nova rainha do Imprio Romano.
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In Titus, (...) widely divergent epochs are represented throughout the
lm, existing side by side without any commentary on why, or how.
Costume, paraphernalia, horses or chariots or cars; these represent
the essence of a character, as opposed to placing it in a specic
time. This is a lm that takes place from the year 1 to the year 2000.
Julie Taymor
It's retro-contemporary-futuristic. Everything was interpreted,
nothing was exact. It's like a comic strip. It's much easier to do a
movie in a specic period. Here, all the costumes mean something
more than just dress-up. It's a very difcult way of doing a movie.
Milena Canonero
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None of the characters wear green at any point during the lm. Director Julie Taymor felt that green
suggests safety and comfort and told costume designer Milena Canonero that costumes could only
be colored metallic, red, blue, gray, black or white.
Director Julie Taymor used anachronistic props and clothes throughout the lm (eg chariots and tanks;
swords and machine guns) because she wanted to symbolically depict 2,000 years of warfare and
violence.
Milena Canonero's costume designs incorporate strains of historical periods ranging from ancient to
modern, evoking past and present associations of historical memory to play further on the
borderline of the real/surreal.
STARKS, Lisa; LEHMANN, Courtney. The Reel Shakespeare: alternative cinema and theory. Cranbury: Rosemont Publishing & Printing Corp., 2002.
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During both the off-Broadway production of the play and the shooting of the lm, director Julie Taymor
used the work of Joel-Peter Witkin as inspiration.
Gods of Earth & Heaven (1988)
Joel-Peter Witkin
The Birth of Venus (1486)
Botticelli
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During both the off-Broadway production of the play and the shooting of the lm, director Julie Taymor
used the work of Joel-Peter Witkin as inspiration.
Woman Once a Bird (1990)
Joel-Peter Witkin
Le Violon d'Ingres (1924)
Man Ray
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During both the off-Broadway production of the play and the shooting of the lm, director Julie Taymor
used the work of Joel-Peter Witkin as inspiration.
Las Menias (1987)
Joel-Peter Witkin
Las Meninas (1656)
Diego Velzquez
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Maria Antonieta 2006
Directed by: Soa Coppola
Production Design by: K.K. Barrett
Art Direction by: Pierre du Boisberranger, Anne Seibel
Gnero: Histrico, Biograa, Drama
A princesa austraca Maria Antonieta (Kirsten Dunst) enviada ainda adolescente Frana para se
casar com o prncipe Luis XVI (Jason Schwartzman), como parte de um acordo entre os pases. Na
corte de Versalles ela envolvida em rgidas regras de etiqueta, ferrenhas disputas familiares e
fofocas insuportveis, mundo em que nunca se sentiu confortvel. Praticamente exilada, decide
criar um universo parte dentro daquela corte, no qual pode se divertir e aproveitar sua
juventude. S que, fora das paredes do palcio, a revoluo no pode mais esperar para explodir.
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(...) a modern and contemporary take on the character of the whimsical Austrian
Canoneros costumes were mostly based on historical silhouettes, but made with brighter, more modern
colors and lower necklines. Most of the historical inspiration for Canoneros costumes was reected in colors,
rather than extreme detail or copied style - (...) Canonero designed a blue costume with pink accessories
that was visually inspired by a portrait of Marie Antoinette in a blue dress with pink bows. Canonero also
follows a distinct timeline with her costumes which not only charts Marie Antoinettes character growth but
reects the changing fashion of the era - from large pannier dresses to simple country dresses and beyond.
I got to take this counter-age sort of story about a girl who is a fashion victim in a way. She starts out very
young and innocent. But we get to watch her grow through the movie. I started by throwing pieces of
material at Kirsten [Dunst] to see what colors suited her best.
Milena Canonero
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Soas portrait of Marie Antoinette in the lm is accurate, but human. To me, Marie
Antoinette was very unlucky. She lacked the right upbringing for such a role. She was the
sweet playful girl of the family. Soa has grasped the lightness and superciality of the
young Marie Antoinette, but also the dignity of the woman. She has done it by using
light brush strokes and not too much dialogue.
Milena Canonero
I would get bored when it would get sort of too detailed. I didnt want to get bogged
down with history, but to focus on the personal relations between these people.
Milena Canonero
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Soa [Coppola] gave me a box of macaroons from Ladure. We looked at
them and the beautiful colors and they became a guideline in a way. We
didnt do everything based off of them, but they were denitely an inspiration.
Milena Canonero
[At the start of pre-production, Coppola handed Canonero a box of pastel-
coloured macaroons from the Ladure pastry house.] She told me These are
the colors I love. I used them as a palette. Soa was clear about the
coloration, but left the rest to me. We squeezed the essence of the period,
without reproducing it. Even if you think you know a lot about it, you always
have to look for a new angle. I simplied the very heavy look of the 18th
century. I wanted it to be believable, but more stylized.
Milena Canonero
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When Marie-Antoinette is going
through her shoes while preparing for
a big party you see a pair of blue
Converse All Star 1923 Chuck Taylor
basketball shoes for about one and a
half seconds. While these shoes were
denitely not in existence at the time
of Marie-Antoinette, their inclusion
in the lm was intentional, to portray
Marie-Antoinette as a typical teenage
girl despite the time she lived in.
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Soa Coppola had Spanish footwear designer Manolo
Blahnik create hundreds of specially made shoes for
the lm.
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O Grande Hotel Budapeste 2014
Directed by: Wes Anderson
Production Design by: Adam Stockhausen
Art Direction by: Stephan Gessler (lead art director), Gerald Sullivan ( supervising art
director), Steve Summersgill
Gnero: Comdia, Drama, Policial
No perodo entre as duas guerras mundiais, o famoso gerente de um hotel europeu conhece um
jovem empregado e os dois tornam-se melhores amigos. Entre as aventuras vividas pelos dois,
constam o roubo de um famoso quadro do Renascimento, a batalha pela grande fortuna de
uma famlia e as transformaes histricas durante a primeira metade do sculo XX.
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We had meetings and also exchanges of ideas and
references not just for the costumes themselves, but
the total look of the principal characters from
head to toe, she [Milena Canonero] says.
Photographers like Man Ray and George Hurrell,
and painters like Gustav Klimt, Kees van Dongen,
Tamara de Lempicka, and George Grosz served as
inspiration points. One also is stimulated by
looking not only at the real people of that time,
but also at other images and literature that are
unrelated to the period and the setting of the
story, she says. The look of each actor has to
have its raison dtre.
Man Ray
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George Hurrell
We had meetings and also exchanges of ideas and
references not just for the costumes themselves, but
the total look of the principal characters from
head to toe, she [Milena Canonero] says.
Photographers like Man Ray and George Hurrell,
and painters like Gustav Klimt, Kees van Dongen,
Tamara de Lempicka, and George Grosz served as
inspiration points. One also is stimulated by
looking not only at the real people of that time,
but also at other images and literature that are
unrelated to the period and the setting of the
story, she says. The look of each actor has to
have its raison dtre.
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Egyptienne au
Collier de Perles
(1913)
Kees Van Dongen
We had meetings and also exchanges of ideas and
references not just for the costumes themselves, but
the total look of the principal characters from
head to toe, she [Milena Canonero] says.
Photographers like Man Ray and George Hurrell,
and painters like Gustav Klimt, Kees van Dongen,
Tamara de Lempicka, and George Grosz served as
inspiration points. One also is stimulated by
looking not only at the real people of that time,
but also at other images and literature that are
unrelated to the period and the setting of the
story, she says. The look of each actor has to
have its raison dtre.
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Kizette On The Balcony
(1927)
Tamara de Lempicka
We had meetings and also exchanges of ideas and
references not just for the costumes themselves, but
the total look of the principal characters from
head to toe, she [Milena Canonero] says.
Photographers like Man Ray and George Hurrell,
and painters like Gustav Klimt, Kees van Dongen,
Tamara de Lempicka, and George Grosz served as
inspiration points. One also is stimulated by
looking not only at the real people of that time,
but also at other images and literature that are
unrelated to the period and the setting of the
story, she says. The look of each actor has to
have its raison dtre.
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Vor der Kaserne (1918)
George Grosz
We had meetings and also exchanges of ideas and
references not just for the costumes themselves, but
the total look of the principal characters from
head to toe, she [Milena Canonero] says.
Photographers like Man Ray and George Hurrell,
and painters like Gustav Klimt, Kees van Dongen,
Tamara de Lempicka, and George Grosz served as
inspiration points. One also is stimulated by
looking not only at the real people of that time,
but also at other images and literature that are
unrelated to the period and the setting of the
story, she says. The look of each actor has to
have its raison dtre.
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O desao no consistiu apenas em recriar
um perodo histrico, mais especicamente
os anos entre guerras, na ctcia Repplica
de Zubrowka, onde se desenrola a trama.
Milena precisou imergir no universo muito
particular do diretor Wes Anderson, cuja
preocupao esttica atinge um nvel de
detalhamento maior a cada novo lme. Para
compor a direo de arte complexa, ela
desenhou as roupas levando em conta no
somente os personagens, como tambm os
tons do cenrio e dos objetos.
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Anderson envisioned Tilda Swintons
Madame D, a wealthy art collector nearly
90 years old, as someone who was a fan of
symbolist painter Gustav Klimt. With that
in mind, Canonero printed a Klimt-inspired
pattern for Swintons velvet costumes.
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Um dos vestidos de veludo de Tilda Swinton, que
interpreta uma colecionadora de arte de mais de 80 anos,
tem as cores e desenhos de uma das mais famosas
pinturas do artista, o Retrato de Adele Bloch-Bauer 1.
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Though Edward Norton plays the stern
captain of the Lutz military police, set
in Andersons ctional Eastern European
nation called Zubrowka, his style was
arresting. Canonero used her connections
with Fendi to have a gray Astrakhan
coat designed for the character.