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    Why I built this Spot welder

    I decided to build this Spot Welder for small brackets, boxes and much other small

    fabrication work that I do from time to time where my Mig Welder is just too awkwardfor such fine work.

    I was originally going to build a bench version of this Spot Welder, using only the Clamp

    mechanism I drew up, and mount the Transformer to the Bench separately linkedtogether using heavy Welding or Battery Cable, but decided to make it compact and

    portable instead, (more for storage and a challenge than anything else).

    You could buy a Spot Welder from eBay or some Tool distributors if the Dollars permitor you could have fun building this one for much less and will work well.

    The one big requirement you will need to start this project is a suitable Transformer; youcan acquire one from old Junk Yards, some (non operational) Microwave ovens, even

    some old ARC Welder Transforms can be modified and used as well, or you could have

    a Transformer Manufacturer build one up for you at a cost.

    Transformers are a Science all to there own with some smaller types able to put out more

    than big ones of the same Volt Amps (VA or KVA for short), Many factors come intoplay during there construction, the Core Materials being one that govern there output and

    duty cycle.

    BE WARNED you will be working with HIGH ac voltages in a couple of areas, SO, please adhere to theWarnings I have mentioned in the Plans. You build this project at your own risk; I hold no responsibility for your

    or anyone elses personal injury.

    These plans are the property of The Edge Products / eziplans.com

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    Operation Switch

    Timer Switch

    Lightly weld the two Spacers onto

    the side plates prior to drilling andtapping

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    SPOT WELDER PRE-BUILD PROJECT EXPLANATION

    I have supplied free for you CAD DXF drawings so that you can have them laser cut, this will make your work much easier

    and accurate, or, you may wish to build from the Plan measurements, its entirely up to you.

    All the holes done during the laser cutting are reference holes and will need to be drilled out afterwards to give an accurate

    finished size.

    The Timer circuit plans are also supplied for you along with all the parts and part numbers needed from Jaycar electronics.

    Web site, http://www.jaycar.com.au/

    I have only given limited details on the transformer build as their are many types, sizes and designs that can do the job,

    some work much better than others for the same VA or KVA for short periods, and, can be smaller in there physical design,

    it just depends on what you can get.

    To be safe I would strongly suggest you have an electrician do checks on any 240v work you did before using the spot

    welder, and make sure you earth the transformer and parts bolted to it.

    The Transformer power cord should be at least 15amp 2.5mm Sq wire size to avoid voltage drop, depending on the

    transformer used it could pull up to or even more than 20amps so it is best you use on a 15amp circuit with a 20amp

    breaker if legally possible.

    I havent given any measurements on the back transformer housing and cover that contains the electronic timer due to somany different size transformers, but the photos should give you an idea of how it is made.

    The Spot Welder Tips are Copper Alloy, either Copper Beryllium mix, or Copper Zirconium Chromium mix or better

    and turned down at the tip end; you could use Brass or just plain Copper but they will not last as long.

    Caution

    Be careful when sanding copper containing Beryllium as it is known to be carcinogenic, best to wear a Breathing mask and

    wash exposed areas afterwards.

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    HINGING MECHANISM INSTUCTIONS

    The hinging mechanism build should be built as shown in the instructions, depending on the

    Transformer used the measurements must stay the same.

    If for any reason you need to differ in length or height ONLY (again depending on the

    transformer used) you can add to the bottom of the side plates below the insulated arm

    Plate, and, where it attaches to the Transformer face otherwise the cam mechanism will not

    work properly.

    If you prefer to make the Transformer separate from the Mechanism then you can mount

    both the Transformer and the Hinge mechanism to a preferred surface with large Battery or

    Welding cable between the arm cable mounts.

    Its a good idea to remove the insulation of the cables and wrap the bare Copper leads with

    Glass Tape to handle the heat, But, that is optional.

    If you prefer as I did to make it a portable spot welder then you may need to make a flexible

    lead on the top handle hinge plate, there are a few of ways to do it.

    1. Several strips of thin copper sheet bolted at each end in a laminate configuration, or,

    2. Stripping a piece of Heavy Battery Cable, untwisting the big strands till straight, insert theminto a Battery terminal end and then clamping tight. (solder them in if you dont have the

    right tool just dont let the cable get to hot or the solder will melt away), or,

    3. Use Woven earth strapping in two or three layers (like you see on some older Vehicles

    where the negative side of the battery goes to the chassis) and swage some copper tube

    over the ends to prevent fraying, carefully drill a hole through the middle and bolt to the armend and transformer. See Fig 1

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    TRANSFORMER BUILD INSTUCTIONS

    You are best to find a transformer that is at least rated at 1.5 2.5 KVA for this project, anything

    less than that will not produce much of a spot weld unless its thin gauge black steel or stainlesssteel, with, the primary windings wound underneath the secondary windings.

    To wind the transformer secondary windings you will need to get very heavy gauge battery cable

    and wrap that around at least 5 7 turns to gain enough voltage to deliver the current, (again

    with the insulation removed and wrapped with glass tape). Less turns will give you more current,

    but, will not be as effective as the voltage drops to much relying on what resistance is left to

    deliver any useful current. Their are a lot of factors that apply here, with the transformer core, and

    material used having a lot to do with it; experimenting before the build is a good idea.

    You could use heavy annealed copper sheet and wrap that around the primary with elephant hide

    as an insulator, the only disadvantage with that is it is very hard and time consuming to do unlessdone prior to the laminate insertion through the primary wound bobbin.

    You can use microwave transformers but they are usually only suited to light sheet work and lack

    in performance due to their design, however, if you have two or three IDENTICAL microwave

    transformers of the same wattage and primary ohms and you wound the secondary windingsthe same, you can either put them in parallel or in series to gain more current, paralleling is the

    better but it is best to read up about that if your unsure. For a guide, If series connecting is your

    preference then wind the Transformers at 2 turns each when using 3 transformers or 3 Turns

    each when using 2 transformers to give you approximately 6 7 Volts output.

    If you cannot obtain a transformer you could always have one built by a professional at areasonable cost that will do the job a lot better for this project.

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    INSTUCTIONS for Figs 1 - 7

    1st drill the 8mm hole at the end, it will close up but easy to re-drill afterwards, it will help when

    the crushing process begins, also make sure you anneal the copper ends only before crushing.

    Basically build as shown, but, with the copper ends of the cable use the measurements as

    shown.

    These ends will need to be squashed up TIGHT in a strong vice temporarily and then use a

    press to finish off the process. The sides should compress inward at least 5mm or more and

    will need to be filled back flat afterwards.

    The secondary winding ends must not exceed the width of the air gap or you wont be able to

    feed them between the primary windings and the core; although, if you mount the transformer

    separately from the clamp system, you can use proper crimp cable ends after it has been

    wound, but, make sure you make the cable longer before hand.

    The depth of all holes are 9mm so make sure you exceed that by 1mm or more when crushing

    otherwise you will file into the Wire, you need that 1mm solid copper to compress down as well.

    See figs 2,3,4,5 & 6

    This instruction is only a guide, it will strongly depend on the air gap between coil andinside the core and how you approach the secondary winding and cable size.

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    14 Strips of 6ml Fine Copper Automotive Wire

    with the insulation striped off or use BatteryCable untwisted and stripped

    CopperCopper

    Fig 1

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    INSTUCTIONS

    Press down to 8 mm or less

    Use a strong G clamp and two pieces of solid 6mm flat and clamp down tight

    With a little grease between the metal and copper, this will prevent the

    Face from opening up during the side Crush, the Grease assists in allowing the

    slide movement without any binding .

    Then put that under the press and close up the sides all the way along

    the length

    8 mm

    You now need to file or mill this end piece

    Back to 8mm as well but only after youve

    Compressed the sides

    1mm or more past

    Hole depth

    2

    6

    5

    3

    4

    Figs 2,3,4,5 & 6

    TIPWhen using the two pieces of 6mm flat

    You need to make them at least 5mm

    narrower than the copper ends to be

    Crushed and centered prior to the crush.

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    A

    BC D

    These connector legs are only needed if you are going to makea portable type spot welder, and can be lengthened or shortened

    to suit your transformer adapter plate build.

    The top leg (A) should not exceed the height measurement of

    14mm shown in the plans and should always stay as is, but, can

    be extended down if needed along with bottom leg (B).

    (C) witch runs along the base can be extended downwards also,

    If need be, BUT, do not change the bottom plate (D) height.

    In saying that if you prefer to make a bench or non portable version

    of the spot welder and decided to narrow up the clamp distance

    then you could cut out a section between the two red lines. The onlyProblem in doing that is, you will lack room for big folded items

    between the arms.

    4.5mm

    14mm

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    62mm

    30 mm

    2nd 6 mm Plate

    10 mm

    7 mm

    X 4

    5 mm Holes

    X 4

    1st 6 mm Plate

    Top PlateBottom Plate

    Thread all 4 Holesto Suit 5mm

    Al len Screw Bolts

    10 mm

    7 mm

    X 4

    12 mm Bend Distance

    25 mm Top View

    30 mm

    Handel

    Joiner25 mm

    6 mm Plate

    Bend End

    Weld

    20 mm

    10 mm

    10mm

    X 2

    4

    0mm

    30 mm

    50 mm

    81 mm

    25mm

    6 mm Plate

    6 mm Plate 6 mm Plate

    10 mm

    10m

    m

    X 2

    STEELSTEEL

    STEEL

    STEEL

    STEEL

    STEEL

    45mm

    5mm

    X 4

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    85mm48

    mm

    20 mm

    25 mm

    30

    mm

    50 mm

    8 mm Holes12 mm

    Drill and Tap Hole to

    a 5/16 UNF Thread

    For the Earth Strap

    14mm

    Diameter

    6 mm Plate

    3 mm

    7 mm

    7 mm

    7 mm

    30mm

    5.5 mm gap for weldsEND View

    8 mm Holes

    STEEL

    STEEL

    STEEL

    31 mm

    12 mm6 mm Hole

    STEEL

    4 mm Plate

    4 mm

    66 mm

    8 mm

    89mm

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    4 mm Plate x 2

    38 mm Diameter Circle

    5 mm Plate 12 mm20 mm

    63 mm

    51mm

    48 mm

    70mm

    or

    226.75

    deg

    185mm

    18 mm 9 mm

    50m

    m

    68m

    m

    44mm

    64mm

    75 mm

    47 mm

    125mm

    11 MM

    18mmDiam

    eter

    8.5 mm

    Hole taped to

    3/8 UNF

    8.5 mm

    Hole and Tapped

    To 3/8 UNF once

    The 6 mm Spacer

    Blocks have been

    welded in Place.Tip,

    MAKE sure you

    Tape the holes

    In a straight line.

    Using the Drill

    Press to HandTurn the Tap with

    The job firmly

    Clamped is best

    16 x 6 mm with a 8.5 mm hole drilled for tapping x 2Spacers

    Spacers go

    on the inside

    of Side Chassis

    Plates

    Bottom

    10 mm

    20mm

    12 mm

    STEEL

    STEEL

    STEEL

    14 mm

    5mm

    8mm

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    16mm

    Brass Thick

    Wall Pipe

    or

    PreferablySolid Bar

    Front View

    20 mm

    26 mm

    10.5 mm

    7mm

    25 mm

    25 mm

    47mm

    120 mm x 1/4 UNF for U Bolt

    20 mm

    Both Ends

    29 mm

    29 mm

    8 MM

    Hole

    12 mm

    Make sure you put a 1 mm spacer

    Between the two insulator Plates

    Before drilling the 20 mm hole.

    Use either hard wood, bakelite or

    equivalent for the two insulators

    25 mm

    20 mm

    Cut Through for

    Clamping tight

    12mm

    14.5 mm

    This piece is Brass

    welded to the end of

    the cut hex Brass

    Bush and filed flat

    (chamfer ends first)

    5.5 mm

    Top View

    SideView

    STEEL

    BRASS

    BRASS

    30mm

    61.5 mm

    Top View

    5.5 MM

    Holes x 4Drill Holes to suit

    Top Plate

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    3/8 UNF Bolt

    9.5 mm from

    washer face

    Machine end to a 8 mm Pin no more than 6.5 long

    Centre Line

    X 2

    X 2

    4 mm from

    washer face

    Machine end to a 8 mm Pin no more than 6.5 long

    Centre Line

    3/8 UNF Bolt

    52 mm long x 8 mm wide pin

    8 mm wide

    By 3 mm deep

    slot26 mm

    5/16 UNF

    By 8 mm long

    5/16 UNF

    By 28 mm long

    62 mm

    8 MM

    Hole16 mm Square

    Steel Bar

    29 mm long5/16 UNF

    By 8 mm deep

    Top view

    End view

    61.5 mm x 8 mm pin

    15.5 mm 15.5 mm

    30.5 mm down to 1/4 mm

    Optional

    File a flat

    Both sides

    To suit a

    1/4 inchspanner

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    16 mm

    8 mm Hole

    24.5mm

    8 mm Hole

    8 mm

    19 mm

    3 mm

    20mm

    3 mm

    25 mm

    25mm

    6.2mm

    X 2

    X 2

    19mm

    31.2 mm

    49.5 mm

    5 mm Plate

    3 mm Plate

    6 mm Plate

    Weld

    Top View

    5

    0mm

    16.5mm

    x

    x

    x

    8 mm Hole

    STEEL

    STEEL

    STEELSTEEL

    STEEL

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    Outer Side View

    3/8 UNC Thread

    End View

    10 or 12 mm Hole

    20 mm

    18 mm

    34 mm

    17mm

    223 mm

    228 mm

    BRASS

    BRASS

    Option 1

    8 mm

    6 mm

    8 mm

    These two end plugs are used to preventDamage done to the Copper beryllium alloy

    Electrodes by the constant

    Tightening and un-tightening of the

    Grub Screws

    BRASS

    End plug

    End plug

    3/8 UNC

    Grub Screw

    3/8 UNC

    Grub Screw

    TOP BAR

    BOTTOM BAR

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    12 mm

    40mm

    30 mm25 mm

    32mm

    18 mm

    150 mm

    14 Strips of 6ml Fine Copper Automotive Wire

    with the insulation striped off or use Battery

    Cable untwisted and stripped

    Copper

    BRASSCopper

    CopperCopper

    BRASS

    CopperCopper

    14 x 5 mm Holes

    9 mm Deep

    14 x 5 mm Holes

    9 mm Deep

    Option 3

    Option 2

    From Transformer

    From Transformer

    From Transformer to Lift Lever Hinge Plate

    This length may differ depending on transformer connections

    etc, best to use a short piece of wire to get the best fit with no

    binding between the open an closed position of the arms.

    mm Sizes are before the crush

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    20 mm

    10 mm

    5/16 UNF Thread

    Knurled Brass

    Adjusting Button

    Use a 16 mm diameter 2.5 or 3 mm

    coiled spring 28 30m long

    TIP

    Some junked motor bike clutch springs

    Are well suited for this

    STEEL Tube

    120 mm x 20 mm Tube

    Handel

    X 2

    8 mm

    4 mm

    3 mm

    16 mm This internal Spacer size

    will Depend on the

    internal spring Diameter

    you use and is machinedfrom Nylon (Optional)

    These 3 parts you dont need

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    CAD Drawing Images of DXF Parts

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    332Vdc

    N

    A100uF 63V

    Electrolytic

    240Vac

    TLC

    555

    (CMos)

    26K

    1 K

    4k7

    63v

    47uF0.01uF

    Solid State

    Relay

    (Primary)

    Variable

    Trim Pot

    WHEN R1 = 1K , T = 52 M/Seconds

    WHEN R1 = 26K , T = 1.35 Seconds

    1

    28

    6

    5

    3

    7 4

    Foot Switch

    Or

    Lever Switch

    240VoltSide

    0.01uF

    +

    100k

    13 Volt DC

    Transformer

    8.5v

    ac

    CautionDo Not exceed 17volts to the

    TLC 555 Chip or you will blow it up.

    After the Bridge rectifier and once the 100uF Capacitor has been put in place you will notice

    an increase In voltage, Please adhere to the Caution in Red.

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    Pictures

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    Extended down 20MM

    On Mine, not put into the

    Supplied Plans

    Modifications on Mine, not

    put into the supplied Plans

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    Bridge Piece

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    This Flexible Earth Strap I made is for reference, you will

    need to modify its design slightly to suit your Transformer

    if needed

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    if needed.

    I actually used a bridge piece from the transformer OUTPUT to

    this Strap and clamped them to the Side Plate to stop any

    unnecessary movement on the OUTPUT terminal of the transformer,

    Just incase it broke down the insulation material overtime.

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