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Transporte TransversalTransporte Transversal José A. Jiménezj ji @ [email protected]
Laboratori d’Enginyeria MarítimaETSECCPB
Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya
TRANSPORTE TRANSVERSAL
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TRANSPORTETRANSVERSAL
CAMBIOS EN PERFILCAMBIOS ESTACIONALES (reversibles nat.)CORTO PLAZOTRANSVERSAL
UNDERTOW + otros
TRANSPORTELONGITUDINAL
CAMBIOS EN PLANTACAMBIOS PERMANENTES (irreversibles nat.)MEDIO-LARGO PLAZO
CORRIENTE LONGITUDINAL
TRANSPORTE TRANSVERSAL
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CUANDO ES RELEVANTE?
Impacto de tormentasEvolución de rellenosCambios estacionalesEfecto SLREfecto del rebase del oleajeEfecto del rebase del oleajeEvolución frente a estructurasBypass de material en groins
TRANSPORTE TRANSVERSAL
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Cambios en el perfil
Profile A Profile A –– Beach shaped byBeach shaped bynormal wave actionnormal wave action
t = horast = horas--diasdiasPerfil de erosión(impacto de temporales)
Profile B Profile B –– Storm wave Storm wave attackattack
Profile C Profile C –– After storm, normal After storm, normal wave action rebuildswave action rebuildsnew bermnew berm
t = semanast = semanas--mesesmesesPerfil de acumulación new bermnew bermPerfil de acumulación(oleaje baja energía)
TRANSPORTE TRANSVERSALProfile D Profile D –– Under normal wave Under normal wave action beach returnsaction beach returnsto berm profileto berm profile
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Hazaki Oceanographical Research Station (HORS)
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SeawardSeaward
Shoreline position changeShoreline position change
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Tipologías básicas
Barra litoral
“Filtro energético”“Almacén” de material
TRANSPORTE TRANSVERSAL
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TRANSPORTE TRANSVERSAL
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TRANSPORTE TRANSVERSAL
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December 11 2005: 12:00
December 13 2005: 9:00
January 7 2006: 8:00January 7 2006: 8:00
January 8 2006: 8:00January 8 2006: 8:00
January 9 2006: 9:00
January 10 2006: 9:00
TRANSPORTE TRANSVERSAL January 25 2006: 12:00
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Procesos que determinan el transporte transversal
BBCC
AABB
TRANSPORTE TRANSVERSAL
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Procesos que determinan el transporte transversal
BBCC
AABB
TRANSPORTE TRANSVERSAL
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Asiim
etriaa
2
2
cosh 4 ( ) /( )
2 sinh (2 / )z d LH CU z
L d L
Mean drift velocity:
TRANSPORTE TRANSVERSAL
2 sinh (2 / )L d L
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TRANSPORTE TRANSVERSAL
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2/1 Transporte fuera de zona de rompientes
2/17 mcm Watanabe, 1982)
3
2/122 uu
Φ tasa de transporte adimensionalizadoΨm magnitud del parámetro de ShieldsΨc parámetro de Shields crítico
3u
Ψc parámetro de Shields crítico
TRANSPORTE TRANSVERSAL
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No linealidad de las olas
HL
PeralteLdL
Profundidad relativa
//
LH L Hd L d
Altura de ola relativa
2 2
/d L dL H HLU Número de Ursell
3RUd d d
TRANSPORTE TRANSVERSAL
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FUERA DE ZONA DE ROMPIENTES
Transporte hacia tierra
Depende de la asimetría del campo de velocidades oscilatorio
Aumenta con la no linealidad del oleajeAumenta con la no-linealidad del oleaje
TRANSPORTE TRANSVERSAL
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Procesos que determinan el transporte transversal
BBCC
AABB
TRANSPORTE TRANSVERSAL
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TRANSPORTE TRANSVERSAL
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Undertow
(distribución vertical del tensor de radiación &
(distribución vertical de la
tensor de radiación & gradiente de presión)
velocidadxxdSdgd
dx dx
dx dx
0.08 0.010 gd (cerca del Undertow current ≈
TRANSPORTE TRANSVERSAL
gfondo)
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TRANSPORTE TRANSVERSAL
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(a) (b)
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Corrientes transversales
t t d•• transporte de masa• streaming
(boundary layer)• undertow
Transporte de masa (onshore)
Undertow (offshore)Streaming (onshore)
TRANSPORTE TRANSVERSAL
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DENTRO DE ZONA DE ROMPIENTES
Transporte hacia mar
Depende de la intensidad del undertow
Decrece en las inmediaciones del punto de roturaDecrece en las inmediaciones del punto de rotura
TRANSPORTE TRANSVERSAL
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Olas no rotas - onshore
Rompientes - offshore
Bajo tormentas – barra externa se mueve hacia tierra y la barra interna se achata
Barras múltiples si se reforman las olas en rotura
Barra externa se forma por las olas más energéticas
Barra interna se forma por las olas menos energéticas
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PROCESS-BASED MODEL
2/17 mcm Watanabe, 1982)
Φ is the dimensionless transport rate, Ψm is the magnitude of the instantaneous Shields parameter and Ψc is the critical Shields parameterand Ψc is the critical Shields parameter
Note the massive scatter (log-log plot) and variations in the coefficients.
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Predictores del cambio en el perfil de playa
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3o oH HM berm
L T
LWT datos
3o
o o
L wT
H HM bar
o
M barL wT
0.00070M
datos de
(altura de ola media para oleaje irregular)
campo
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Parámetro de Dean
• Annual berm-bar cycle.critical conditioncritical condition
aTw
Ho
> di t ff h (b )
Twf
• > a – sediment moves offshore (bar)• < a – sediment moves onshore (berm)
2 5 ( f)• a ≈ 2.5 (ag prof)• a ≈ 4 (rotura)
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Perfil de equilibrio
Perfil de playa está en equilibrio con el oleaje incidente.
P fil d l di i d f if l fl j d í d lPerfil de playa disipa de forma uniforme el flujo de energía del oleaje incidente.
)tan(xh Línea de orilla y zona de swash
2
3/2Axh Perfil sumergido
)(25.22
gwA
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)t (h
28.050
32.050
5094.0
50
4010)(230
104.0,)(23.0
4.0,)(41.0
mmddA
mmddA
mmddA
)tan(
2
3/2Axhxh
5011.0
50
5050
40,)(46.0
4010,)(23.0
dmmdA
mmddA
)(25.2
2
gwA
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Perfil de equilibrio generalizado
Zona de rompientes
, 0mbh Ax x x (Dean profile m=2/3)
Offshore
bn
bn
b xxxxBhh ,)(/1
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0
4
8
)
measured profile
lsq-fitted EBPs
-2
-1
Prof
ile E
leva
tion
(m)
-4
0
Prof
ile E
leva
tion
(m) lsq fitted EBPs
-3
2P
measured profile
lsq-fitted EBPs
-12
-8
P
180 200 220 240 260Cross-Shore Distance (m) 0 200 400 600 800
Cross-Shore Distance (m)
GWK (laboratorio) Long IslandGWK (laboratorio) Long Island
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167 /30.142 bB h
12
3)
measured
empirical formula
8
amet
er (m
^7/3
4Shap
e Pa
ra
0
0 2 4 6 8Depth at Breaking (m)
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2.a Equilibrium beach profile erosion model (Dutch)2.a Equilibrium beach profile erosion model (Dutch)
B h fil i ilib i ith i id t li tB h fil i ilib i ith i id t li tBeach profile in equilibrium with incident wave climate.Beach profile in equilibrium with incident wave climate.
Model developed for storm conditionsModel developed for storm conditionsModel developed for storm conditions.Model developed for storm conditions.
Based on a set of experiments in laboratory (Large Wave flume)Based on a set of experiments in laboratory (Large Wave flume)p y ( g )p y ( g )Vellinga (1986) in NetherlandsVellinga (1986) in Netherlands
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Profile measurements
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0.51.28 0.567.6 7.60.4714 18 2.0
wy x
0 0
0.4714 18 2.00.0268s s
y xH H
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••New equilibrium equation including Tp:New equilibrium equation including Tp:0.5
1.28 0.4 65 0.5
0 0
127.6 7.60.4714 18 2.0
0.0268T
wy x
H H
TTpp = 12 s = 12 s
0 0 ps s
storm surge levelstorm surge level
initial profileinitial profile
Longer wave periodLonger wave period
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2.b Equilibrium beach profile erosion model (US)2.b Equilibrium beach profile erosion model (US)
K i b l & D (1993) USAK i b l & D (1993) USAKriebel & Dean (1993) USA Kriebel & Dean (1993) USA
Using equilibrium beach profilesUsing equilibrium beach profilesUsing equilibrium beach profiles.Using equilibrium beach profiles.
Model developed for storm conditions.Model developed for storm conditions.pp
Storm characterized by stormStorm characterized by storm--surge & wave conditions.surge & wave conditions.
Two cases depending on the initial beach profile.Two cases depending on the initial beach profile.
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Solutions for sloping beachface (general) Solutions for sloping beachface (general)
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3.a Beach profile response to RSLR3.a Beach profile response to RSLR
B l (1962)B l (1962)Bruun rule (1962)Bruun rule (1962)
Simple behaviour modelSimple behaviour modelSimple behaviour model.Simple behaviour model.
Forcing condition (RSLR).Forcing condition (RSLR).g ( )g ( )
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Types of CrossTypes of Cross--Shore Transport ModelsShore Transport Models
•• energy dissipation models (Kriebelenergy dissipation models (Kriebel--Dean)Dean)
•• energetics models (Bailardenergetics models (Bailard Inman)Inman)•• energetics models (Bailardenergetics models (Bailard--Inman)Inman)
•• concentrationconcentration--velocity modelsvelocity models
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SIMPLE ENGINEERING MODEL
D&D
Example, profile is too shallow (slope less than equilibrium), sediment transport should be onshore to steepen profile.
For this case, shallow profile indicates a D<D*. Waves will break further offshore and there will be less turbulence than the equilibrium profile case for each cross-shore location
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Cross-Shore Transport Rate I
Kriebel and Dean (1985):Kriebel and Dean (1985):
c eqq K D D
5 3/ 2 2 3/ 2524eqD g A
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Cross-Shore Transport Rate II
Larson and Kraus (1989):Larson and Kraus (1989):
Surf zone (breaking waves):Surf zone (breaking waves):
cs eqdhq K D D
K dx
Offshore zone (nonOffshore zone (non--breaking waves):breaking waves):
/
exp ( )co b bq q x x 1/ 2
5025 b
dH
b
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