8/7/2019 24 Hours: Rio de Janeiro

1/110 WestWorld >> fall 2008 Zubin Shro/gettyimges.com

24hours: Rio de JaneiroThego-to city guide when youvebarely got a weekend

rigin, canivaand oot-ball orm a Holy Trinity o Brazilian popular

culture, writes Alex Bellos inFutebol: The

Brazilian Way of Life, an anthropological

study o that countrys beautiul game.

However, ater passing seemingly endless soc-

cer pitches on the drive into central Rio romthe airport, it would seem Brazilian futebol is

a religion unto itsel. Even on a Sunday morn-

ing in this most Catholic o countries, every

dusty ield is crowded with players. Some

might even consider the sport, along with

carnival, to be one o the great equalizers in

Brazils racially diverse and class-conscious

culture, though it would be a rather simplis-

tic view. With a population o 188 million,

Brazil is second only to Bangladesh in the

unevenness o its distribution o wealth.

The capital o Brazil rom the 19th century

to 1960, the Cidade Maravilhosa or Marvel-

lous City, as Rio de Janeiro isknown isrenowned or its white-sand beaches and cur-

vaceous landscapes as much as or its favelas,

or slums, whichcling like glaciers to the citys

mountainsides. There are no ewer than 750

avelas in Rio, including Rocinha (pop.

250,000), the largest slum in South America.

International interest in the hillside shanty

towns has only increased with the 2002

eature lm Cidade de Deus(City of God), itsgritty depiction o gang violence sparking a

surprising new trend: avela tours.

Strangely, such grinding third-world pov-

erty exists alongside rst-world glamour in

this capital o vanity, hedonism and body

consciousness, a city ripe with temptation.

Exotic ruit juices are sold on virtually every

corner. The beach with its expanse o barely

there bikinis is never ar away. Plastic sur-

gery is as common as a haircut, and cachaa,

the Brazilian cane liquor, comes in a dozen

favours. Here, pleasure is everyones raisondtre. As one Vanity Fairwriter recently sur-

mised,the pursuit o happiness is a Brazilianbirthright. Jennifer Patterson

iniguide

The Go Spots

Lapa Decaying colonial district knownfor its bohemian nightlife, where cariocas

(Rio inhabitants) feast on cabrito (goat) with

broccoli rice atNova Capela, a Lapa institution(Avenida Mem de S 96; 55-21-2252-6228),

before (or after) live samba at Carioca daGema. barcariocadagema.com.br Vincius Bar For The Girl from Ipanema,courtesy of live bossa nova trios. Rua Vincius

de Moraes 39, Ipanema. 55-21-2523-4757

To sip water from ice-cold coconuts: Posto 9,the legendary hot spot for artists, intellectuals

and beautiful people on Ipanema Beach.

gua de Coco, orBlue Man, for a stylishandskimpyBrazilian bikini. aguadecococom.

br; blueman.com.br

Vintage tram ride to the hilltop artist enclave

of Santa Teresa (the Montmartre of theTropics). Station at Rua Llio Gama 65, Centro.

Sip caipirinhas, Brazils signature limecocktail, at sunset from one of the

Copacabana Beach kiosks.

Trendy Vittles

No visit to Rio is complete without

churrascaria, a Brazilian all-you-can-eat

barbecue, at Porco Rios, with picture-postcard night views of Sugarloaf Mountain.

Grab a taxi to AvenidaInfante Dom Henrique,

Flamengo. 55-21-2554-8535

Siri Mole & Cia Rios best Bahian cuisine:rich moquecas (seafood and coconut-milk

stew) and acarajs (shrimp croquettes).

Rua Francisco Otaviano 50, Copacabana.

55-21-2267-0894

Best Crash Zones

Cama e Caf Bed and breakfast networkin Santa Teresa district. Doubles from $60.

55-21-2221-7635; camaecafe.com.br

Copacabana Palace A dazzling neo-classical building overlooking the beach;

rooms t for royalty and rock stars.

Doubles from U.S. $675. 55-21-2548-7070;

copacabanapalace.com.br

Y ini avRio and Brazil travel member-specials at

bcaa.com/brazil

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famuy ang.